The grass IS always greener on the other side
- Thread starter Rubyfruit
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modest mouse
Meating People is Easy
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You need a profesional service to provide fertilization, weed control, grub and insect control... and the correct proportionality throughout the season. 4 or 5 applications per year rather than dosing it with Miracle Grow regularly. The expense will eventually prove worthwhile because a healthy lawn naturally maintains itself.
...and cut your grass high and often.
...and cut your grass high and often.
G
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I have found that an easy, maintenance free yard is best when you plant nothing but dandelions. Beside the green, you get that contrasting color of yellow! Drives the neighbors crazy (with envy?).
MMmmmm.... modest mouse. Want to....ummm... play?
MMmmmm.... modest mouse. Want to....ummm... play?
G
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modest mouse
Meating People is Easy
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Aeration, as EmeraldEyes mentions, can help particularly if your building lot was never graded properly or with to large a piece of equipment. This will cost some cash though and the results are more in the vein of long term care.
Manx... I have a cock, just so you know. But the dandelion idea makes me laugh. The secret is that clover makes the perfect lawn. It doesnt get too long, stays green in drought, and feels soft on your feet. The flowers will attract bees if you're allergic.
Ruby.... is the blade width, color, and general make up of your lawn the same as your neighbors? Its possible that you have an improper species of grass for your climate zone.
If money is an issue do the following things:
>Cut your grass no shorter than 3 1/2 inches for the next month, then shorten to 3 inches, then to 2 1/2 if it improves. Don't let it get too long or when it is next cut it puts stress on what may already be a vulnerable plant.
>Lots of water, late in the day.
>Pave it and paint it green.
Manx... I have a cock, just so you know. But the dandelion idea makes me laugh. The secret is that clover makes the perfect lawn. It doesnt get too long, stays green in drought, and feels soft on your feet. The flowers will attract bees if you're allergic.
Ruby.... is the blade width, color, and general make up of your lawn the same as your neighbors? Its possible that you have an improper species of grass for your climate zone.
If money is an issue do the following things:
>Cut your grass no shorter than 3 1/2 inches for the next month, then shorten to 3 inches, then to 2 1/2 if it improves. Don't let it get too long or when it is next cut it puts stress on what may already be a vulnerable plant.
>Lots of water, late in the day.
>Pave it and paint it green.
freakygirl
Literotica Guru
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- Apr 9, 2001
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- 27,432
General Watering
Consistency and deep watering are two basics of a good lawn program.
REGULAR SCHEDULE: Irregular watering can be harmful. It might train the roots to grow too close to the surface, leaving them more vulnerable to the scorching sun. It can also push the grass plants in and out of dormancy, forcing them to use up stored nutrients too quickly.
DAY VS. NIGHT: Watering at night spreads diseases which thrive in damp, dark environments. Daytime watering allows the sun and wind to dry the blades of grass while their roots are irrigated. As a rule, a sprinkler with a 5/8-inch hose left in one place for one hour each week will give grass all the water it needs. If you choose not to water, the grass will go dormant and turn brown during very hot summer periods. The grass has not died; it is just using its natural defenses against heat and drought. The grass should turn green again with sufficient moisture.
Mowing
The way you mow your lawn has a significant effect on its health.
MOWING HEIGHT: Grass generally performs best when mowed at one of the higher settings on your mower—especially in hot summer weather. The mower blade should be kept sharp, and you should not cut off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades in a single mowing.
MOWING FREQUENCY: Once a week is usually sufficient. In spring, when grass is growing more rapidly, mowing twice a week may sometimes be necessary to avoid removing more than 1/3 the length of the grass blades.
GRASS CLIPPINGS: Grass cycling—leaving clippings on the lawn after mowing—allows nutrients to return to the soil. Light clippings can decompose rapidly, nourishing the soil as they decay. Heavy clippings, however, can sometimes, smother grass, so using a mulching mower in such cases is recommended.
Fertilizing *Sounds like you are over fertilizing*
Nutrients lawns need are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The amount of nitrogen to apply may vary from region to region and turf type, but is normally about four to seven pounds per 1000 square feet a year. Whatever the amount, it should be carefully applied at intervals over the course of the growing season. If the applications are incorrect, extra shoots of grass will grow too quickly, leading to a buildup of thatch.
Different specialists' opinions may vary as to the exact ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to use. Generally, however, you should fertilize seasonally in the following ways:
SPRING: A fertilizer with a ratio of about 4-1-2 parts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will help the grass begin the summer growing season.
EARLY SUMMER: Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be mixed at about a 3-1-2 ratio.
FALL: Although the blades of grass are beginning to slow in growth, a fertilizer with higher nitrogen and potassium, at a ratio of 3-1-3, will encourage healthy root growth, ensuring strong turf the following year.
Be careful and follow the label directions: too much fertilizer can burn your turf.
Use of Pest Control
If a pest or weed problem is killing the grass, or causing significant damage, some people apply pesticides. There are many on the market—either insecticides, herbicides or fungicides—to control insects, weeds and diseases respectively. It is very important to properly identify the pest and be sure that an appropriate lawn product is used.
Be sure to purchase a product targeted to the particular problem you want to resolve. Determine whether or not the product needs to be watered into the soil.
Improper and indiscriminate spraying of insecticides, herbicides or fungicides could do more harm than good. Turf grass is crawling with life, most of it barely noticeable. Everything living in your grass should ideally create a natural balance which gives grass the right environment to grow.
Herbicides, the most commonly used pesticides, must be used carefully, because they can damage or kill ornamental plants or shrubs if you miss your target.
Identify the weed and the most effective time in its growing season to treat it. You must know the exact size of your lawn in square feet so you can purchase and apply the right quantity of pesticide.
Mix only the amount of pesticides you need. Any excess mixtures of small amounts of pesticides can be applied over the same site of the original application. Store any left-over products in their original containers and away from children or pets. If you are mixing products, follow the label directions. Do not add a little extra—and never use the concentrated product. Wash carefully with soap and water if any spills on your skin.
Hope this helps..
Consistency and deep watering are two basics of a good lawn program.
REGULAR SCHEDULE: Irregular watering can be harmful. It might train the roots to grow too close to the surface, leaving them more vulnerable to the scorching sun. It can also push the grass plants in and out of dormancy, forcing them to use up stored nutrients too quickly.
DAY VS. NIGHT: Watering at night spreads diseases which thrive in damp, dark environments. Daytime watering allows the sun and wind to dry the blades of grass while their roots are irrigated. As a rule, a sprinkler with a 5/8-inch hose left in one place for one hour each week will give grass all the water it needs. If you choose not to water, the grass will go dormant and turn brown during very hot summer periods. The grass has not died; it is just using its natural defenses against heat and drought. The grass should turn green again with sufficient moisture.
Mowing
The way you mow your lawn has a significant effect on its health.
MOWING HEIGHT: Grass generally performs best when mowed at one of the higher settings on your mower—especially in hot summer weather. The mower blade should be kept sharp, and you should not cut off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades in a single mowing.
MOWING FREQUENCY: Once a week is usually sufficient. In spring, when grass is growing more rapidly, mowing twice a week may sometimes be necessary to avoid removing more than 1/3 the length of the grass blades.
GRASS CLIPPINGS: Grass cycling—leaving clippings on the lawn after mowing—allows nutrients to return to the soil. Light clippings can decompose rapidly, nourishing the soil as they decay. Heavy clippings, however, can sometimes, smother grass, so using a mulching mower in such cases is recommended.
Fertilizing *Sounds like you are over fertilizing*
Nutrients lawns need are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The amount of nitrogen to apply may vary from region to region and turf type, but is normally about four to seven pounds per 1000 square feet a year. Whatever the amount, it should be carefully applied at intervals over the course of the growing season. If the applications are incorrect, extra shoots of grass will grow too quickly, leading to a buildup of thatch.
Different specialists' opinions may vary as to the exact ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to use. Generally, however, you should fertilize seasonally in the following ways:
SPRING: A fertilizer with a ratio of about 4-1-2 parts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will help the grass begin the summer growing season.
EARLY SUMMER: Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be mixed at about a 3-1-2 ratio.
FALL: Although the blades of grass are beginning to slow in growth, a fertilizer with higher nitrogen and potassium, at a ratio of 3-1-3, will encourage healthy root growth, ensuring strong turf the following year.
Be careful and follow the label directions: too much fertilizer can burn your turf.
Use of Pest Control
If a pest or weed problem is killing the grass, or causing significant damage, some people apply pesticides. There are many on the market—either insecticides, herbicides or fungicides—to control insects, weeds and diseases respectively. It is very important to properly identify the pest and be sure that an appropriate lawn product is used.
Be sure to purchase a product targeted to the particular problem you want to resolve. Determine whether or not the product needs to be watered into the soil.
Improper and indiscriminate spraying of insecticides, herbicides or fungicides could do more harm than good. Turf grass is crawling with life, most of it barely noticeable. Everything living in your grass should ideally create a natural balance which gives grass the right environment to grow.
Herbicides, the most commonly used pesticides, must be used carefully, because they can damage or kill ornamental plants or shrubs if you miss your target.
Identify the weed and the most effective time in its growing season to treat it. You must know the exact size of your lawn in square feet so you can purchase and apply the right quantity of pesticide.
Mix only the amount of pesticides you need. Any excess mixtures of small amounts of pesticides can be applied over the same site of the original application. Store any left-over products in their original containers and away from children or pets. If you are mixing products, follow the label directions. Do not add a little extra—and never use the concentrated product. Wash carefully with soap and water if any spills on your skin.
Hope this helps..
Last edited:
G
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Mellon Collie
Literotica Guru
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- Sep 25, 2001
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Ha!
I ain't got no lawn. Grass is that green shit that grows from the cracks in the pavement.
I ain't got no lawn. Grass is that green shit that grows from the cracks in the pavement.
MM is correct. There are different needs in your lawn at different times a year.
You don't have to have a professional do it. You just have to know what you need to do, and when.
I didn't memorize that shit in Turf class very well, because I really couldn't give a shit about lawns, but I do know some good general stuff.
Here is what you need to know...
Fertilizers are calculated by percentag of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K).
The bag of fertilizer will have a ratio set up that will have numbers arranged like this. 12-7-17 The numbers symbolize the porportion of N-P-K to one another in the formulation.
It is important to know what each number represents here, when buying, so that you get the right amounts of these macronutrients, for the right time of year.
A basic home owner fert plan, designed to be easy, and effective in making the home lawn durable, and easy to care for.
In early Spring apply a fertilizer that has a crab grass preventative. Look for a formualtion like this...
ex. 5-3-5 or 7-3-5 and so on
If they only carry blends that have a high first number, then remember go ahead, but don't over apply. Too much Nitrogen can cause dollar spot. Also, if the Nitrogen isn't slow release, it can burn your lawn. Look for the words Slow Release or Sulfur Coated Urea on the label. This is the kind of Nitrogen you want.
Then around the time the Forsythias bloom, you want to put down a formulation that has a Broad leaf weed killer in it. Usually there will be a dandilion on the front of the bag. The formulation can look similar to the one above, but beware, this is when you Don't want to put down a lot of Nitrogen or you'll be mowing constantly.
In early summer, Now, put down a 'Fall Blend' Fertalizer with a ratio that has a high last number and a low first number. ex. 5-5-17 the key is to get one with a high last number. You'll find this in your fall blends, because Potassium improves hardiness. The thing that most people don't know is, that if you give you lawn two doses of this shit before the heat of summer hits, your lawn will suffer less stress by the heat and it will eventually, after time of this going on, will stay green longer, and have more disease resistance.
Repeat the above application in a month, around the first of July.
Then you'll need to use only a early fall application of a broad leaf weed killer blend, to kill late germinating weeds.
Mid to late fall calls for another application of Fall blend.
If this regimine is kept up, then you'll have little disease problems come on.
I hope this is comprehensible and helpful. Once you get in the habit of doing it, it is really not that hard to maintain.
You don't have to have a professional do it. You just have to know what you need to do, and when.
I didn't memorize that shit in Turf class very well, because I really couldn't give a shit about lawns, but I do know some good general stuff.
Here is what you need to know...
Fertilizers are calculated by percentag of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K).
The bag of fertilizer will have a ratio set up that will have numbers arranged like this. 12-7-17 The numbers symbolize the porportion of N-P-K to one another in the formulation.
It is important to know what each number represents here, when buying, so that you get the right amounts of these macronutrients, for the right time of year.
A basic home owner fert plan, designed to be easy, and effective in making the home lawn durable, and easy to care for.
In early Spring apply a fertilizer that has a crab grass preventative. Look for a formualtion like this...
ex. 5-3-5 or 7-3-5 and so on
If they only carry blends that have a high first number, then remember go ahead, but don't over apply. Too much Nitrogen can cause dollar spot. Also, if the Nitrogen isn't slow release, it can burn your lawn. Look for the words Slow Release or Sulfur Coated Urea on the label. This is the kind of Nitrogen you want.
Then around the time the Forsythias bloom, you want to put down a formulation that has a Broad leaf weed killer in it. Usually there will be a dandilion on the front of the bag. The formulation can look similar to the one above, but beware, this is when you Don't want to put down a lot of Nitrogen or you'll be mowing constantly.
In early summer, Now, put down a 'Fall Blend' Fertalizer with a ratio that has a high last number and a low first number. ex. 5-5-17 the key is to get one with a high last number. You'll find this in your fall blends, because Potassium improves hardiness. The thing that most people don't know is, that if you give you lawn two doses of this shit before the heat of summer hits, your lawn will suffer less stress by the heat and it will eventually, after time of this going on, will stay green longer, and have more disease resistance.
Repeat the above application in a month, around the first of July.
Then you'll need to use only a early fall application of a broad leaf weed killer blend, to kill late germinating weeds.
Mid to late fall calls for another application of Fall blend.
If this regimine is kept up, then you'll have little disease problems come on.
I hope this is comprehensible and helpful. Once you get in the habit of doing it, it is really not that hard to maintain.
KillerMuffin
Seraphically Disinclined
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- Jul 29, 2000
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- 25,603
*patiently waits for the innocent minded agronomist to walk in so I can jump his unsuspecting bones*
Hi Ruby!
I'll just wait here, 'kay?
Hi Ruby!
I'll just wait here, 'kay?
#1tankcomander
Mark'sGirl Has My Heart!
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- May 4, 2002
- Posts
- 5,674
Must be........
the septic tank leak I heard about there!!!!!
the septic tank leak I heard about there!!!!!
InnocentAngel81
~~*Big Booty Girl*~~
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- Nov 9, 2001
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- 3,092
my neighbors would compete with everything, their lawns, backyards, christmas, its kinda like grumpy old women
Private Vasquez
Minkey Boodle
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2002
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- 6,519
don't make fun.
I'm goin' for a whole new "brown" lawn look. Green is so passe.
I'm goin' for a whole new "brown" lawn look. Green is so passe.
