recipe for a foodie pilgrimage: morimoto

silverwhisper

just this guy, you know?
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Mar 30, 2005
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intro:
so the mrs and i made a foodie pilgrimage to morimoto, the philly restaurant founded by iron chef masaharu morimoto.

i use the word “pilgrimage” very deliberately here. as a long-time watcher of both the original japanese version of iron chef as well as the food network incarnation, i’ve been a fan of morimoto for a long time. although formally trained as a sushi chef (which he did after playing professional baseball in japan), he’s stretched cuisine well beyond the borders of the japanese islands while retaining an undeniably japanese bent

what follows then is my impression of our delightful visit.

ambience:
it’s absolutely impossible to speak about morimoto without first discussing its absolutely stunning design. a pair of pale yellow glass doors (which incidentally lack any marking, logo or anything else identifying the restaurant) opens into one of the most unusual dining rooms you’re likely ever to see. while a classic rectangle in size, the seating consists largely of 2 seat booths running along the right and left ends, while the middle is made up of two rows diner-style booths, alternating between four and eight people capacity, which breaks up the straight line monotony. i describe the booths as diner-style, which is a bit of a disservice to the design, as the barriers between areas is made of lighted lucite which varies from purple to sea green (the mrs calls the color ‘sea glass’) to blue (she calls the color amethyst). while the effect may sound peculiar, it’s very gradual and in fact was quite soothing to experience.

the room has a cathedral ceiling, and there is (what i think was) a wood-plank sound barrier that waved its way from the front of the dining room to the back, where the kitchen and sushi bar are situated. apart from the lucite structures forming the booths, there were no straight lines inside the entire establishment that i particularly noticed. i suspect that this is a deliberate aesthetic decision to help “center” the diner, allowing him or her to focus on the food. and i have to say, i think it worked pretty well, once i got accustomed to it—it took me around ten mins or so.

service:
morimoto uses a front/back system for service. for those not inducted into the specifics of how waiting tables works: a front server is the person in charge of whatever you need at your table, checks up on you between courses, etc., while one or more other servers will bring things to you as needed. as opportunities present themselves, the “back” servers address those needs when the “front” server is otherwise occupied. this method can be difficult for wait staff in certain establishments: the entire group is dependent upon good teamwork and when one person screws up, everyone suffers re: tips, but the teamwork i witnessed in morimoto was stellar. while i’d have preferred a somewhat less intrusive wait staff presence—the servers insisted on greeting us every time they were at the table, which quite frankly i dislike—they were pleasantly attentive without hovering, i must say.

cuisine:
we ordered the omokase, a tasting menu. like a number of restaurants offering a tasting menu, there are several “sizes”, depending upon how much you want to spend, and basically, the folks in the kitchen make something they think you’re going to enjoy for your money—yes, the servers ask about food allergies/dislikes. we opted for the most modest omokase, which was $40/head.

menu:
yellowfin tuna sushi in a soba sauce with osetra caviar and fresh wasabi:
when presented, the server suggested we use our spoons to get a little everything together, the sushi, with caviar and wasabi. it was absolutely fantastic, and as i said to the mrs, with each bite, i felt the impulse to stop and meditate upon this new wisdom. it was a thing of beauty.

sashimi salad with microgreens, yellowfin tuna and salmon dressed in a soy and onion dressing with carrot oil:
there was a bit too much dressing for the salad but otherwise, it was simple, clean—spartan. it allowed the fish to speak for itself, which is really what i look for in sashimi.

chilean sea bass with a scallions and ginger microsalad dressed with plum sauce and walnut oil:
OK, granted that chilean sea bass is scarce so we wouldn’t have knowingly ordered it, but…

o
my
god

it was buttery in a way that fish has no right to be. i’m pretty sure the sea bass was steamed rather than using any other kind of preparation: it was cooked through but there was nary a hint of the cooking process used. in theory, it could have been cooked using a sous vide, although i think that unlikely for reasons i can’t describe. whatever the case, it melted on my tongue.

sushi sampler of 5 types of fish: tuna, yellowfin tuna, japanese red snapper and 2 other types of fish which i no longer recall:
it was sushi. it was beautiful. need i say more?

plum and almond tart with white chocolate mousse with apricot tuille:
you won’t believe how good it was. indeed, i don’t think that i can describe it adequately.

beverages:
she had a cilantro gimlet—insanely good—and i had a morimoto hazelnut ale—not quite what one might expect, very tasty yet light and no, not sweet. that ale is available in certain stores, btw.

summary:
yes, you will spend more than you are probably accustomed to spending. that isn’t even a question. having said that, it’s completely worth it. every. single. cent. o, and btw, morimoto has a NYC location, for those of you who get to manhattan. :>

ed
 
Thanks for the review. I've long wondered what it would be like to eat at his place.

One of my little fantasies is to do a Food Network road trip that would include visits to restaurants run by Morimoto, Emeril, Flay, Cora, Dean, and Batali along with a few of the great places made more famous by Rachael Ray and Alton Brown on their travel shows.

Damn, a full stomach as I began reading and now I'm hungry again. :D
 
beg pardon, the mrs was reading this and corrected me on 2 specifics:

item 1: it was not a yellowfin tuna sushi, it was a yellowfin tuna tartare.

item 2: the sashimi salad did not have a microsalad on it: the scallions and ginger were shaved, rather than forming a microsalad.

yank, it was positively amazing!

ed
 
Damn, I HAVE to try that place. My boss has an 'in' with them, too...I should ask him to send me to Philly as a performance bonus. ;)

Unfortunately, Morimoto lent his name to a casual bistro-style Asian place down here near DC...which apparently is quite mediocre. Sometimes celebrity chefs need to be more careful about protecting their brand...

SG
 
simplegifts: don't judge the philly location by the one you know. you'll regret it--promise!

ed
 
silverwhisper said:
simplegifts: don't judge the philly location by the one you know. you'll regret it--promise!

ed

Oh, no, I'd be stoked to go to the original in Philly...just sad that he lent his name to a poor substitute. I still want to go to the original Nobu as well.

SG
 
This review makes me want to try things that I ordinarily wouldn't glance at.
 
simple gifts: ah, i understand. still, DC to NYC isn't that long a slog: beltway to 95 to manhattan. can't be more than what, 4 hours or so?

denae: of the many possible responses this might have gotten, i think i like your reaction best.

yank: i forgot to mention this--the mrs and i do that little fantasy too. :>

ed
 
silverwhisper said:
yank: i forgot to mention this--the mrs and i do that little fantasy too. :>

ed

Ah, the foodie road trip fantasy.

Lately I've been watching Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives and have started a list of those places that I'd like to visit. I've already been to the A-1 Diner in Gardiner, Maine that was shown on the "Local Legends" episode. In a few weeks we're planning to try out Frank's Diner in Kenosha, Wisconsin since it's only about an hour away. Last night's show included a stop at a place in the Napa valley that serves some bodacious dishes, including a hamburger topped with an onion ring that surrounds a mound of chunky blue cheese. :p

Damn, just had breakfast and I'm starting to salivate already.
 
Out of curiosity, how much was dinner for the two of you?

I am a big fan of both Iron chef shows, I would love to eat at Iron chef French's restaurant in Japan. I am sitting here and I ca't think of his name, all the other guys are good too.

ON the food network I love Bobby Flay's throwdown, I love the fact that he never wins.
 
albertaboy: well, we went for lunch, not dinner. the beverages were pretty expensive: the cilantro gimlet was $17 IIRC; the hazelnut ale, $13. the omokase was $40/head.

iron chef french was hiroyuki sakai. :>

i gotta say, bobby flay kinda annoys me at times, but his food always looks so amazing to me! :>

ed
 
albertaboy said:
ON the food network I love Bobby Flay's throwdown, I love the fact that he never wins.
Actually, he has won a few. Recently a throwdown aired where he went up against a couple of pie makers and his fruit pie was judged superior to his. For that matter, his classic grilled hamburger won over one made by the winner of a national hamburger contest from a couple years ago. I'm sure there are others. My experience is that Flay wins about one in four throwdowns.


Ed, I'm not a big fan of the host of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives but I thoroughly enjoy seeing the segments on the various restaurants. To get a sense of the kinds of places that he visits, check out this website for the A! Diner in Maine.
 
silverwhisper said:
simple gifts: ah, i understand. still, DC to NYC isn't that long a slog: beltway to 95 to manhattan. can't be more than what, 4 hours or so?

That's a bit optimistic...but yes, the trip is do-able. The trick is finding someone who will watch the kids while we're gone!

SG
 
I'm gonna have to be honest with you, i HATE everything about the food network, i'm glad Batali and the FN have parted ways. Watching that channel and hearing them give the wrong information just really pushes my buttons. No serious foodie cares about Bobby Flays Restaurant or Rachel Ray with her annoying personality. "EVOO" The only chef i have respect for on TV is Anthony Bourdain, though hes no Ferran Adria or Eric Ripert or a Daniel Boulud.

But aside my bashing of the Food Network, the best place i've eaten in NYC would have to be Yakitori Taisho in St.Marks. Don't get me wrong i do enjoy wining and dining but this place just feels warm to me. What could be better than grilled meats? Chicken Skin, tongue, quail eggs, gizzards and so on. All that and a nice brew to wash it all down.....maybe Asahi?
 
Allalone00 said:
But aside my bashing of the Food Network, the best place i've eaten in NYC would have to be Yakitori Taisho in St.Marks. Don't get me wrong i do enjoy wining and dining but this place just feels warm to me. What could be better than grilled meats? Chicken Skin, tongue, quail eggs, gizzards and so on. All that and a nice brew to wash it all down.....maybe Asahi?

Oooooo! That sounds awesome. I'll have to find someplace to save that name so I can try it the next time I'm in Manhattan...

SG
 
lol yea and its all cheap too! so its good for me cause i'm a cheap date lol. but yea u should def hurry and go, make sure you try their Fries with Spicy fish roe mayo
 
interesting, i would think that a true foodie wouldn't be so quick to judge another person's food tastes. :>

meh, yakitori leaves me cold. but then again, i happen to be a fan of rachael ray. i suppose that makes me a non-serious foodie, then. :>

ed
 
yea but 2 bad Food critics do it all the time....but i guess they aren't true foodies either, they just have a job that revolves around it right?
 
bah, what the hell do i know of food critics?

ultimately: food network works for me b/c i'm forever learning from the shows there, primarily now from alton brown, but in the past also from sara moulton.

when you come right down to it, as foodies, there are many more things that bring us together than divide us, if you ask me.

ed
 
My experience with Morimoto was a bit different. I made a reservation weeks in advance for 7:30 PM on a special occasion. There was no misunderstanding about this. When we arrived, the restaurant was packed because it was a rare occasion of the chef actually being in the restaurant, and they told me there was a misunderstanding and my reservation was for 11:00. As we left, I told the kid at the door to make sure to lead the fat fuck to the empty table at 11:00 and explain why it was empty. Unfortunately, this is nothing new in the trendy restaurants in Philadelphia, and I have never gone back.

We saved the night by going to a restaurant in the burbs where one of his ex sous chefs was the chef, and we had an absolutely wonderful meal.
 
bottomlover: that's pretty damned unfortunate. i'd be curious to hear about the restaurant opened by a former sous, though. ?

ed
 
silverwhisper said:
bottomlover: that's pretty damned unfortunate. i'd be curious to hear about the restaurant opened by a former sous, though. ?

http://www.teikokurestaurant.com/

I might have it wrong. The restaurant is owned by Thais, and when it opened, Umer Naim (former general manager of Morimoto) was the general manager. Greg McColgan was the chef, and a waitress told me he was a former sous chef at Morimoto, but I am not certain of that. I know Umer Naim left, and the sushi chef (Alex, I don't remember his last name) took over as head chef and changed the menu. We didn't like his food as much, and have not been there for a while, but I was just saying a few nights ago that we should give it a try and see how it has evolved. I'll report back.

With the original manager and chef, it was easily the best food in the burbs. The chef's tasting thing was by far the best and most interesting food I've ever had.
 
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