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Hitachi magic wand repair

I always wondered, what the purpose of those holes in American plugs were for. Now I know.
:D
 
it seems not original hitachi have different layouts/equipment.
I have a 10 speed USB charged one.the motor with an offset weight is located inside the head assembly. I just can't find the damned silver ring holding screw)))))))) I've flexed the shaft in all directions-there's a flexible rubber/plastic cover.nothing else.it's very powerfull on ,but now doesn't work at all(worked weaker and weaker till it died completeley).maybe the battery is faulty?it worked with the USB cable attached too,without premature charging
 
I've heard there is a new diesel engine replacement for the lovers of the lower speeds....great torque.
 
temp256 said:
Here you go.

A small fan draws air in by the head to cool the motor. Normally this is a good design, but someone forgot the air needs somewhere to go--there is no exit vent. This is probably why they slapped the 25 minute time constraint on its use.

The circuit is a pretty simple design, but they really cut corners with the motor. Sure it's big and powerful enough, but it's a cheap brushed DC motor instead of a quality AC induction motor. Since it's a DC motor, it uses a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the AC to choppy DC. The low speed is created by inserting another diode in series, effectively cutting the power in half. It's a common design.

I included a schematic as well.
Click to expand...



I've tried opening the pic of the spring... do you happen to know the gauge, or a better gauge to replace to stock spring?
 
lifehack!

temp256 said:
In general, the rule for oil vs. grease is to use oil on parts which have constant contact like bearings, and grease on parts with intermittent contact, like gear teeth, or the spring drive.
Click to expand...

My Husband is an xray technician and so we have spray cans of a cleaning/lubricating agent that looks similar to wd-40 just laying around all the time. I have used it for everything from door hinges to squeaky electronics and even to kill a roach once. I knew it was safe to use on electronics but It never occurred to me to find out if it was what is BEST for them. I have no idea if it is a grease or an oil until just now I don't think I ever consciously separated the two in to subcategories of lubricant. I feel both enlightened and want to share said new found revelation with pinterest yet also embarrassingly daft for not thinking of it on my own. I guess in my head its like cooking french fries, you drop them in the oil you take them out and dump the grease the two are interchangeable. Weird. Thank you for the tip and pointing out the difference.
 
The three way switch doesn't work any longer. Anyone know if the switches go bad, or maybe some wiring is bad. If the switch is bad any idea where to get another switch. Thanks for the assistance in advance.
 
Thank you for posting this..

Looking to hack the Hitachi magic wand to get more out of it.

Did anyone ever replace the motor?

Any good sources on replacement motors.

Thanks again.

temp256 said:
Well, I replaced all the diodes. I removed the old ones, and made sure the motor was still good. I soldered the new ones in place, and tested it out.

*BAM* The diodes exploded, tripping the breaker once again.

Then I realized another stupid mistake: the diodes were only rated to 20 volts. I replaced the diodes yet again, this time with a beefy 600 volt 20 amp bridge rectifier. I carefully plugged it in again.

*Whhhrrrrrr* Success! I got it working just like it was originally. Of course, this isn't what I set out to do...

I added the decoupling capacitor again, this time checking the polarity several times. It still worked, and the motor was noticeably faster. Then I added a pair of filtering capacitors to reduce electromagnetic noise. The only complaint I've had with this vibrator is it causes interference with my wireless mouse.

I put it all back together, and it still works. I haven't had a chance to test it properly, but I will in the near future.

I've included a new schematic. My modifications are in violet. The filtering capacitors are connected to the metal case of the motor via a mounting screw.

With this, my 500th post, I just became a Literotica Guru. How appropriate.
Click to expand...
 
temp256 said:
Here you go.

A small fan draws air in by the head to cool the motor. Normally this is a good design, but someone forgot the air needs somewhere to go--there is no exit vent. This is probably why they slapped the 25 minute time constraint on its use.

The circuit is a pretty simple design, but they really cut corners with the motor. Sure it's big and powerful enough, but it's a cheap brushed DC motor instead of a quality AC induction motor. Since it's a DC motor, it uses a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the AC to choppy DC. The low speed is created by inserting another diode in series, effectively cutting the power in half. It's a common design.

I included a schematic as well.
Click to expand...

Is it weird that this description has made me squirm
?
 
I'm looking for some HMW tech support.

My unit was getting....rumbly, gargly. I also noticed the top was oddly askew. As I was twisting it back into place, it broke off. The little spring in there broke. I'm a brute, I know.

I am handy and intrepid, and have my own set of tiny screwdrivers, would someone be willing to coach me through a cleaning and repair?

I've never done any soldering, and I am utterly ignorant of basic electronic principles (like how do vibrators work, and how do I fix them when those copper pieces inside get bent or mis-aligned????), but I would love to take a crack at switching it up, and servicing the one that has faithfully serviced me.

As it is I'm very vanilla as far as electronics go. I've played around with a radio and some of my kids electronics, and I always take apart and service my vacuum cleaners. And lamps, I like to rewire lamps.

I was hoping an experienced kind heart would gently lead me into more exotic servicing skills.i
 
Drive spring question

I might have a similar problem. When you said you "broke" the spring in the head, was it connected to the base in the shaft somehow? Photos seem to show a spring in the motor/fan assembly. I'm wondering if there is some kind of preload tension required for the spring in the base to have the right tension (the drive spring photo shows a tang sticking straight up that seems like it might engage in the head's plastic shaft. I haven't figured out how to separate the shaft from the base yet, and don't want to brute force it.

I bring this up because my partner's MW started making a fan rattle noise (like the blades were hitting the plastic inside the case), and this engineer got out the screwdrivers, removed the silver ring, and split the case. The motor spins fine with plenty of power with case split, and the fan wasn't buzzing once I opened it up.

My problem is when I put the case back together (I had to use a vice to get enough closing pressure to slip the silver ring back on), the motor's vibration is no longer transferred to the head. It's almost as if that spring in the photo needs a few turns.

Trying to reproduce a factory assembly jig at home with no instructions is frustrating.
 
This is a great thread. You have to love engineers and technicians.
 
 
You can't buy it new anymore

akatrex said:
Geez Just buy a New One.!
Click to expand...


I love seeing old post like this come back to life.
So just so every one knows, the original Magic Wand has not been made for some time. Hitachi did not want to be associated with this great product any longer. YOU CANNOT BUY the good one (new) anymore. A company purchased the rights to it and have re-branded it "Magic Wand Original" with no mention of Hitachi. It is way less powerful than the true original. There are also a few knock-offs that are even cheaper and of course less powerful than the that one.
We have owned one for many years now but I had do dissect it to figure out why it got noisy one day, very noisy. I had it torn down to the bare bones and I can tell you it is made very well. The electric motor is in the handle and the head has the offset weight on roller bearings. The knock offs have the motor and weights in the head only. There really is no need for such a large handle with those but they just need to copy the look, of course. Never let moisture get into the bottom of the head as this will penetrate deep into the head where the bearings are and make them rust. This is where ours was till I replaced the bearing and cleaned and lubbed. She is in heaven again.
The OP had great suggestions on what lube and which lube to use on which parts, so go back to the first post and read (in case the internet brought you to this page first). Everything is repairable and replaceable in the "toy". I'm even thinking about putting a Tim the Tool-man Taylor touch on this one day. Arh-arh arh. Hopefully those that have had failures with your "original" wands will have someone handy to get them fixed. Yes it's hard to believe that a current company cannot fabricate one as good or better, since there's still quite a buzz happening with these. BuzzBuzz just becuzz cuzz but we just keep them going till something better cums along.
 
avTronic said:
I love seeing old post like this come back to life.
So just so every one knows, the original Magic Wand has not been made for some time. Hitachi did not want to be associated with this great product any longer. YOU CANNOT BUY the good one (new) anymore. A company purchased the rights to it and have re-branded it "Magic Wand Original" with no mention of Hitachi. It is way less powerful than the true original. There are also a few knock-offs that are even cheaper and of course less powerful than the that one.
We have owned one for many years now but I had do dissect it to figure out why it got noisy one day, very noisy. I had it torn down to the bare bones and I can tell you it is made very well. The electric motor is in the handle and the head has the offset weight on roller bearings. The knock offs have the motor and weights in the head only. There really is no need for such a large handle with those but they just need to copy the look, of course. Never let moisture get into the bottom of the head as this will penetrate deep into the head where the bearings are and make them rust. This is where ours was till I replaced the bearing and cleaned and lubbed. She is in heaven again.
The OP had great suggestions on what lube and which lube to use on which parts, so go back to the first post and read (in case the internet brought you to this page first). Everything is repairable and replaceable in the "toy". I'm even thinking about putting a Tim the Tool-man Taylor touch on this one day. Arh-arh arh. Hopefully those that have had failures with your "original" wands will have someone handy to get them fixed. Yes it's hard to believe that a current company cannot fabricate one as good or better, since there's still quite a buzz happening with these. BuzzBuzz just becuzz cuzz but we just keep them going till something better cums along.
Click to expand...
Our 12+ year old Magic Wand shorted out a few months ago. There was a tiny break in the cord where it went into the unit (unnoticeable until we looked), and it even burned a hole in the carpet when it shorted. I ordered a new one from Vibratex (via Walmart.com) immediately. My Original Hitachi Magic Wand was also made and marketed by Vibratex, so that isn't a new thing at all. They just changed the motor and removed the "Hitachi" name for the new model, but everything else appears to be the same.

Long story short, my husband was able to re-wire our old Hitachi Magic Wand, so now we have both the original and newer 260 model. They are definitely not the same: the new model isn't as powerful and the motor sings an oddly different tune (then again, it's not as loud, either). HOWEVER, the new one is still very powerful compared to other vibes on the market, and it's a suitable replacement. And I'm thinking that a lot of people might actually like the fact that it isn't quite as strong, especially if they're new to the Magic Wand.
 
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