Branding?
- Thread starter silkee_A
- Start date
pierced_boy
Really Really Experienced
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2002
- Posts
- 482
Nightshade_angel
http://www.literotica.com/stories/memberpage.php?uid=60898
read her stuff and try contacting her. She seems very real to me.
otherwise BME.FREEQ.COM
in pain i am yours H
http://www.literotica.com/stories/memberpage.php?uid=60898
read her stuff and try contacting her. She seems very real to me.
otherwise BME.FREEQ.COM
in pain i am yours H
pierced_boy
Really Really Experienced
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2002
- Posts
- 482
silkee_A This is agood topic
Sorry PBW and I burried it last evening
BUMP it back up. Hope the site I gave you is helpful
regards Pierced_boy
H
Sorry PBW and I burried it last evening
BUMP it back up. Hope the site I gave you is helpful
regards Pierced_boy
H
P. B. Walker
Literotica Guru
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2001
- Posts
- 25,127
I would actually go for a brand with the right person. It would have be something that's not over the top of course and in not too revealing a place. I have a tattoo and want another one, and I don't think of brands as much different. In fact, to me they are easier.. you don't have to sit there for hours getting the tattoo... a brand is done pretty quick... just one burst of intense pain, instead of hours of little pain.
PBW
PBW
P. B. Walker
Literotica Guru
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2001
- Posts
- 25,127
NemoAlia said:
Well i don't think you can make them super detailed because in reality they are scar tissue. I think it also depends on how hard and deep you go with the brand. You can do thick, broad brands and then more fine brands. At least that is my impression. I could very well be wrong.
PBW
RisiaSkye
Artistic
- Joined
- May 1, 2000
- Posts
- 4,387
I have five brands, four of which I gave myself--one came from my first Dom. His was a fairly thin barbed-wire effect on my ass. I have two on my inner left arm which I did myself, both smallish. One's a set of linked hoops (kinda like this: 0~~0 ) that looks like handcuffs, the other a smile. There's another I won't tell you about, for personal reasons. The final one is a ringed "O" (as in Story of...)--it's also the only highly visible one (where most anyone could see it), on the inside of my right ankle.silkee_A said:
To make it last, you need super-heated metal (surgical steel is best, and easiest to work with) and short contact. The longer it's on the skin, the more the metal cools, and the burn spreads out and loses its shape. This takes a little trial and error, in my experience. Everyone's skin is different.
You have to balance the risk of skin char from having the metal too hot and contact too short (which creates keloids and other things which will wreck your desired pattern) against the possibility of using something too cool or leaving it too long (which creates bubble-blisters that can seep, and can also distort your pattern by imprinting it unevenly).
Patterns should be simple and in bold lines. Fine lines will fade quickly, and complex patterns don't imprint well. Remember, too, that details will get lost during the scarring process. So, use bold shapes and thick lines, and make sure there's *PLENTY* of "white space" in between lines and patterns if you're trying to create a design with gaps in it--one which will scar some areas and leave other areas of skin undamaged, as part of the design. The spacing is important, because the actual brand will spread a bit.
Afterwards, wrap loosely with gauzing. *Don't* treat it with burn ointments, etc. Those things are meant to minimize scarring, which goes against the whole point. *Do* wait at least a day before really washing it, so that you don't break blisters or disturb the surface levels of skin until the burn's had a chance to "settle." Make sure that anything you wrap it in or cover it with (gauze, pads, etc.) are loose--try to keep them from directly touching the skin as much as possible. Burns can seep, and the fluid will stick to the gauzing, which can tear skin when you remove it, and mess up your careful planning on the design. Also, getting air to it is important--and will help dry it out, which preserves your design better than a "wet" burn.
Also, even with good preparation and follow-through, they start to fade with time. You might want to freshen them up every few years. It's a lot like colored tats that way...no matter how well done, they fade.
I hope that helps!
RS
P. B. Walker
Literotica Guru
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2001
- Posts
- 25,127
Is it hard to find pre-made "irons"... as in branding irons, that come with designs already done? Yes, you'd be re-using someone else's design, but then, not everyone has unique tattoos. I would think having a branding iron would definitely simplify the process greatly. Heat, and stick. LOL. Or are you pretty much stuck wiht finding a piece of steel and doing your own "drawing"?
Any tips on knowing when the metal is hot enough? Is there a certain "glow" that is required? What are some tips for heating the metal? blowtorch? stove? Fire?
PBW
Any tips on knowing when the metal is hot enough? Is there a certain "glow" that is required? What are some tips for heating the metal? blowtorch? stove? Fire?
PBW
RisiaSkye
Artistic
- Joined
- May 1, 2000
- Posts
- 4,387
Chele--I've never gotten into electrical play, so I'm no help on that score. Sorry about that. If you find out more, enlighten us all, okay?
You just have to look creatively--what wizard used to refer to as "pervertible shopping." I've used or seen used a variety of things--steel chain (Home Despot, baby!), candle snuffers, metal cutlery (serving spoons, for some reason, often have interesting patterns cut into the actual spoon), decorative metal buttons (from uniforms, etc.). I really like imprinting seals--the little "stamp" you use to flatten out and "sign" sealing wax, which nobody much uses anymore but was huge in the days before pre-stick envelopes. Many of them are wood, but some are little aluminum (which works, but less well) or steel rods with a flat design on the end. Like calligraphy stuff, they're available in stationery shops, gift stores, and places like that.
If you want to do your own design but aren't much of an artist, take it to an inker. A tattoo artist can do the design for you, and usually will for free; if they know it isn't for a tat, they may charge a nominal fee (I paid five bucks, I think) and/or want their initials in the design. But, it works. Those people are pretty good at free-hand design work, by and large.
If you're using an original design, you'll have to make it. The one time I did this, I used a piece of 1/2 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick steel. (I used my dad's shop to do this...he's a welder, which makes it easier.) Clamp one end down firmly, and you can bend it. There are even clamps and formers which are used specifically to do this, but I'm an idiot about such things, so I don't know the first thing about shopping for them. If you have a particularly tight bend to make, you can heat the metal slightly, and it'll be a little more pliable, briefly. (Good conductor, though, so be careful handling it.)
You can also use a few simple welds/sauters to piece it together, if necessary. If you're going to use it more than once, you can even weld on a bar or some other kind of handle for it, though you'll still need skin protection to hold it when the brand is heated. Do all welding on one side only. It's not good welding, and it wouldn't hold up under pressure, but it doesn't need to do so, and it looks nicer. Then, you just use the side you *didn't* weld to do the actual brand. That avoids getting weird lumps or other evidence of the weld-point.
If you don't put some kind of "handle" on it, plan your design so that you can maneuver it and retain good control over it when it's hot. Leave a spot to pick it up with something (I find that for my brands, which tend to be small, a pair of large tweezers works fine), and practice maneuvering it under those circumstances for a while--do it while it's cool, so you're confident going into the actual branding process.
Personally, I prefer to heat the branding metal over open flame. I've used candle flame, which takes *forever*. You can use a gas stove, fireplace, or even a Zippo--depending upon the size of the brand. This is a question of preference more than result, I suspect. I'm a fire bug, so I like to play with live fire; it's part of the head-trip of it all. So long as whatever you use as a heating element is both 1) hot enough and 2) controllable enough to heat evenly, you should be fine.
In my experience, it's always better to *underheat* than to *overheat.* In most cases, you'll need to brand more than once to have it be permanent without doing real injury, so you're going to be doing this more than once already. You can always go back and go over your design again to bring it out more, but you can't go back and fix a botched effort, or undo a bad burn.
Hope that helps!
RS
It's possible, though not easy. Most branding irons are for use on animal hides--they're *very* thick, get *very* hot, and are quite large. That's not for me, so I've never gone that route, or even really considered it.P. B. Walker said:
You just have to look creatively--what wizard used to refer to as "pervertible shopping." I've used or seen used a variety of things--steel chain (Home Despot, baby!), candle snuffers, metal cutlery (serving spoons, for some reason, often have interesting patterns cut into the actual spoon), decorative metal buttons (from uniforms, etc.). I really like imprinting seals--the little "stamp" you use to flatten out and "sign" sealing wax, which nobody much uses anymore but was huge in the days before pre-stick envelopes. Many of them are wood, but some are little aluminum (which works, but less well) or steel rods with a flat design on the end. Like calligraphy stuff, they're available in stationery shops, gift stores, and places like that.
If you want to do your own design but aren't much of an artist, take it to an inker. A tattoo artist can do the design for you, and usually will for free; if they know it isn't for a tat, they may charge a nominal fee (I paid five bucks, I think) and/or want their initials in the design. But, it works. Those people are pretty good at free-hand design work, by and large.
If you're using an original design, you'll have to make it. The one time I did this, I used a piece of 1/2 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick steel. (I used my dad's shop to do this...he's a welder, which makes it easier.) Clamp one end down firmly, and you can bend it. There are even clamps and formers which are used specifically to do this, but I'm an idiot about such things, so I don't know the first thing about shopping for them. If you have a particularly tight bend to make, you can heat the metal slightly, and it'll be a little more pliable, briefly. (Good conductor, though, so be careful handling it.)
You can also use a few simple welds/sauters to piece it together, if necessary. If you're going to use it more than once, you can even weld on a bar or some other kind of handle for it, though you'll still need skin protection to hold it when the brand is heated. Do all welding on one side only. It's not good welding, and it wouldn't hold up under pressure, but it doesn't need to do so, and it looks nicer. Then, you just use the side you *didn't* weld to do the actual brand. That avoids getting weird lumps or other evidence of the weld-point.
If you don't put some kind of "handle" on it, plan your design so that you can maneuver it and retain good control over it when it's hot. Leave a spot to pick it up with something (I find that for my brands, which tend to be small, a pair of large tweezers works fine), and practice maneuvering it under those circumstances for a while--do it while it's cool, so you're confident going into the actual branding process.
Again, heat depends on the sensitivity of one's skin. Don't let the steel get so hot that it glows red, because that will char skin. I'm very fair & have sensitive skin, so I don't need quite as much heat as some other might. For me, I heat the metal to a dim amber--hot enough that any contact will burn, but not hot enough to char, sear to skin, or do emergency-room kinda damage.
Personally, I prefer to heat the branding metal over open flame. I've used candle flame, which takes *forever*. You can use a gas stove, fireplace, or even a Zippo--depending upon the size of the brand. This is a question of preference more than result, I suspect. I'm a fire bug, so I like to play with live fire; it's part of the head-trip of it all. So long as whatever you use as a heating element is both 1) hot enough and 2) controllable enough to heat evenly, you should be fine.
In my experience, it's always better to *underheat* than to *overheat.* In most cases, you'll need to brand more than once to have it be permanent without doing real injury, so you're going to be doing this more than once already. You can always go back and go over your design again to bring it out more, but you can't go back and fix a botched effort, or undo a bad burn.
Hope that helps!
RS
RisiaSkye
Artistic
- Joined
- May 1, 2000
- Posts
- 4,387
silkee: sounds like the metal was slightly underheated. You'll probably form a blister, but as long as you're careful not to put pressure on it until your body reabsorbs any fluid, it should turn out fine. In a few weeks when it's all healed, you'll probably want to go over it again, a little hotter. It will last better--at least, that's been my experience.
Glad it went so well.
RS
Glad it went so well.
RS
MasterKensbeany
Experienced
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2002
- Posts
- 96
Great Thread
Thank you silkee. Master is considering branding me and I was going to ask these questions myself. Thank you Risia for all the info, I sent Master a link so he could read it himself.
Respectfully
beany
Thank you silkee. Master is considering branding me and I was going to ask these questions myself. Thank you Risia for all the info, I sent Master a link so he could read it himself.
Respectfully
beany
lilredwolph
Literotica Guru
- Joined
- May 17, 2002
- Posts
- 547
SexyChele said:
this is the main reason i bought a violet wand. you have to use a dental pick, which are about the highest intensity and pain, it takes a very steady hand. it is done much like a tattoo outline. using a violet wand you can get finer lines and some detail
lilredwolph
Literotica Guru
- Joined
- May 17, 2002
- Posts
- 547
it is the metal shape pointy tool the dentist uses to pick at your teeth
P. B. Walker
Literotica Guru
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2001
- Posts
- 25,127
silkee.. what did you use to do your brand? how'd you heat it?
Woudl you care to share what kinda design you did and where you put it on your body?
PBW
Woudl you care to share what kinda design you did and where you put it on your body?
PBW
Bondagebunni
Petable
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2002
- Posts
- 2,933
Rocket88 said:
me too...cause then i'd have to find a way to get it off her...not for her!!! for me...*growls at the evil girl*
curious2c
In Flux
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2002
- Posts
- 19,254
Understanding that perhaps the pain of a branding shows a subs Submission or love for a Dom, I just can't see the point. Piercings, or tattoos are the way to go.
I grew up on a ranch and branded cattle. Not pretty, not sexy, not fun. Had I stayed on the ranch, I would have gone with tattoo's or tags instead.
Most important...a brand is a third degree burn and one would need to take very extra careful care of it until it healed. I would rather a sub offered to get a tat or piercing instead.
However...there are degrees of depth of devotion to a Dom I guess. Don't expect I would want to shoulder the pain and responsibility for another like that, in that particular way.
I grew up on a ranch and branded cattle. Not pretty, not sexy, not fun. Had I stayed on the ranch, I would have gone with tattoo's or tags instead.
Most important...a brand is a third degree burn and one would need to take very extra careful care of it until it healed. I would rather a sub offered to get a tat or piercing instead.
However...there are degrees of depth of devotion to a Dom I guess. Don't expect I would want to shoulder the pain and responsibility for another like that, in that particular way.
