A love hate relationship

[SeaCat]

I have this love hate relationship with Varnish. In this case clear Spar Urethane Varnish.

On the one hand the stuff is a pain in the neck to put on after the first coat. It's hard to see what's been covered and what hasn't. Clean up isn't as easy as with other types of varnish either. (I've gotten to the point where I just use cheap brushes and throw them out.)

On the other hand I do love the results I get with the stuff. After two coats the wood is just about waterproof and the finish is like silk. Not to mention it really makes the wood grain stand out. (After four coats the wood is almost bullet proof.)

What reminded me of this love hate relationship? I'm building a new desk for myself. It's almost done. Thirty some pieces of wood have been cut and varnished. (Sides and shelves varnished twice, top varnished four times.) I'm looking forward to finishing this project not only because the varnishing will be done but because I think the desk, although simple will look nice.

Cat

 

[Handley_Page]

only two or four coats , Cat?.

How do you apply the stuff; rub it down between coats ? (gotta do that).

Put the first one on in a diluted state and build up but making the final coat/s almost as diluted ?

Yes, it takes time, but WOW, the final job !

 

[voluptuary_manque]

I like spraying it. A Wegner conversion gun and a little home pancake compressor will do a professional job and you can put on ten coats in a day complete with 600 grit or 00000 steel wool rub down between each one. Great stuff.

Oh, and clean up is done just by running the thinner through the sprayer. Easy? Man!

 

[SeaCat]

Hmmmm,

Diluting it or spraying it? I hadn't thought of either one of those.

I've been putting it on full strength by using a brush then waiting the required four hours before prepping it for the next coat.

Cat

 

[voluptuary_manque]

Hmmmm,

Diluting it or spraying it? I hadn't thought of either one of those.

I've been putting it on full strength by using a brush then waiting the required four hours before prepping it for the next coat.

Cat

For surface finishes a sprayer is the only way to go. You lay on a coat and it's dry in under 15 minutes. Then you rub it down and spray again. The great thing about shellacs or varnishes is that the carrier they're in is the solvent you clean them up with so each coat softens the one underneath and blends into it. It doesn't take long to build up a serious sheen. The guy who taught me about finishes is the Main Man in the L.A. Basin. We have a lot of architectural masterpieces in the area and when one of them needs restoration, Brian is who people call. His HVLP setups run around 4-5 grand because he's laying out gallons of finish but he recommends the little conversion gun for the individual homeowner/craftsman. I bought one and we used it for an entire class period and it did yeoman duty.

 

[SeaCat]

For surface finishes a sprayer is the only way to go. You lay on a coat and it's dry in under 15 minutes. Then you rub it down and spray again. The great thing about shellacs or varnishes is that the carrier they're in is the solvent you clean them up with so each coat softens the one underneath and blends into it. It doesn't take long to build up a serious sheen. The guy who taught me about finishes is the Main Man in the L.A. Basin. We have a lot of architectural masterpieces in the area and when one of them needs restoration, Brian is who people call. His HVLP setups run around 4-5 grand because he's laying out gallons of finish but he recommends the little conversion gun for the individual homeowner/craftsman. I bought one and we used it for an entire class period and it did yeoman duty.

Hmmmmmm, thanks for the information, I'll have to look into one of those sprayers.

And here I've been doing it the old fashioned way all these years.

Cat

 

[voluptuary_manque]

Hmmmmmm, thanks for the information, I'll have to look into one of those sprayers.

And here I've been doing it the old fashioned way all these years.

Cat

They're not expensive. If you already have a small compressor, you're in business. If you don't have one yet, just think of all the neat stuff you can do with one. I use mine to power pin guns for assembling cabinetry, spraying on the finish, filling tires . . .

 

[SamScribble]

An ancient boatbuilder (with an awesome reputation) once told me that the secret was to start and finish the process with a 'pissy' coat, a coat diluted to just 20 percent. I've taken his advice on many occasions and, so far, I've not had cause to regret it.

 

[SeaCat]

This is the desktop as it will fit together when it's done.

All I have to do now is finish the shelves and then finish putting everything together. (I've already put the bottom boxes together as well as cut and varnished the supports needed for the desktop. I should have this thing finished by tomorrow.)

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj79/Seacat_01/Desktop.jpg

Cat

 

[Just-Legal]

Wow, that looks lovely. I see what you mean about bringing out the grain!

 

[voluptuary_manque]

Wow, that looks lovely. I see what you mean about bringing out the grain!

Finishes are great but becoming an expert in them is serious scholarship. Most wood butchers just decide on two or three that they like and use them for everything but if you want to go pro, you'd better have an entire selection available. I'm a shellac and oil type, myself, but have no qualms about breaking out the Spar Varnish if something is going to sit outside.

 

[SeaCat]

Finishes are great but becoming an expert in them is serious scholarship. Most wood butchers just decide on two or three that they like and use them for everything but if you want to go pro, you'd better have an entire selection available. I'm a shellac and oil type, myself, but have no qualms about breaking out the Spar Varnish if something is going to sit outside.

For things that are going to get a lot of use and possibly get liquids on them I like to use Urethane. It stands up well to the abuse. (I'm talking things like the desk I'm working on.)

For things like Book Cases or display shelves I like to use Oils.

Now I have to figure out what would be best for something like a kitchen countertop.

Cat

 

[voluptuary_manque]

For things that are going to get a lot of use and possibly get liquids on them I like to use Urethane. It stands up well to the abuse. (I'm talking things like the desk I'm working on.)

For things like Book Cases or display shelves I like to use Oils.

Now I have to figure out what would be best for something like a kitchen countertop.

Cat

Kitchen counter? BarTop! Pourable clear epoxy resin. You cain't do nuttin' to it and it make de wuud un'erneat' shawn!

 

[SeaCat]

Kitchen counter? BarTop! Pourable clear epoxy resin. You cain't do nuttin' to it and it make de wuud un'erneat' shawn!

Great, thanks for the info.

Cat

 

[SeaCat]

Well it's done. here's two views. The first is just as I finished putting it together and the second is after I put it in place.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj79/Seacat_01/Desk3.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj79/Seacat_01/Desk2.jpg

Cat

 

[voluptuary_manque]

Cat, I didn't know you was a southpaw! Nice job, that.

 

[Handley_Page]

An ancient boatbuilder (with an awesome reputation) once told me that the secret was to start and finish the process with a 'pissy' coat, a coat diluted to just 20 percent. I've taken his advice on many occasions and, so far, I've not had cause to regret it.

I agree, generally. I was told 9 coats for a wooden mast.
The trick is to prepare the wood thoroughly. Then use a low concentration at the first coat, giving loose fibres a chance to stand up and be rubbed down flat.
Then gradually build up to full concentration at layers 7 and 8.
Each layer is well rubbed down before the next is applied with a finer abrasive..
You can apply it using a soft cloth.

Try it. It takes time, but it works wonderful well.

 

[Tyro999]

And in my experience with desks, office or home, that is the last time that desk will be so uncluttered. ;->