The "Things you've done" thread

those bowls are fabulous - the grain/patterning *sigh* beeyootifuls

The wood is "spalted" which means it started to rot before it was dried and stabilized. The streaking is from fungus coloring the wood. Some turners create their own spalted bowl blanks by piling compost on one end of the log slice.

I've worked with spalted wood a few times but I'm slightly allergic to molds and the aftereffects aren't pleasant. I gave up eventually.

Somewhere hidden in one of my rat holes full of junk is a painting I did a couple of decades ago. I'm trying to find it but haven't been successful so far.
 
Thats too much work

The legs probably take less time to turn than the same number of bowls. The rest is just standard cabinet joinery.

I've been leaning toward "Monterey style" work lately. Dark woods and wrought iron accents seem to be calling me for some reason.
 
The wood is "spalted" which means it started to rot before it was dried and stabilized. The streaking is from fungus coloring the wood. Some turners create their own spalted bowl blanks by piling compost on one end of the log slice.

I've worked with spalted wood a few times but I'm slightly allergic to molds and the aftereffects aren't pleasant. I gave up eventually.

Somewhere hidden in one of my rat holes full of junk is a painting I did a couple of decades ago. I'm trying to find it but haven't been successful so far.


Its beech, from our firewood pile at hunt camp
You can see the centre hasn't rotted yet.
 
Think of it this way, it's just a puzzle with a bunch of pieces you have to put together. The fun part is you get to make the pieces.

That's really all there is to it.

Would love to learn but I don't have that talent.

If you and Chilly were closer, I would be placing orders.
 
The bookcase in 133 wouldn't really be that hard to do. Most of the pieces are available in big box stores including the top trim. It would be time consuming to cut and fit, but not difficult. Sanding, staining and finishing would be the most trying.

I've done a similar cabinet/dresser out of oak plywood and trim. Never fully finished it and couldn't get the 8 or 9 drawers lined up quite right but it's in use and works as expected. Piled with stuff now, so no pictures.
 
The bookcase in 133 wouldn't really be that hard to do. Most of the pieces are available in big box stores including the top trim. It would be time consuming to cut and fit, but not difficult. Sanding, staining and finishing would be the most trying.

I've done a similar cabinet/dresser out of oak plywood and trim. Never fully finished it and couldn't get the 8 or 9 drawers lined up quite right but it's in use and works as expected. Piled with stuff now, so no pictures.

It's true. That particular bookcase wouldn't be that difficult to build.

It's 3 upper cases side by side on 3 lower cases. The upper molding is standard Dentil molding. The molding between cases is custom in this project, but any flat door casing would also work.

Upper cases are 13" deep and have twin rows of shelf peg holes. Make a jig out of pegboard and drill the holes on the same spacing 2" in from the front/back edge.

Kreg makes a jig you can get at Lowe's which does pocket holes. Follow the instructions to drill the pocket holes on the underside of the shelves to attach the front wood strip. Ditto for the in between molding but do that only on 1 case and "adjust" the spacing so the next case is flush with the edge of the molding. Uppers mount to the lowers from underneath in the lower cases with screws to keep them in position. There's a spacer block behind the center moldings to keep everything rigid and a screw at the top to hold the cases together all the way up there.

There's a cove molding at the base of the upper cabinets to hide the transition.

Lower cabs are made like the uppers, including the shelf pin holes except the front rows of holes are 3" back from the front edge to allow room for the door hinges. Hinges are standard hidden hinges mounted to the sides of the cases.

Matching 1/4" ply is overlaid on the outside sides to hide the pocket screw holes and make everything match in wood species and color. The front case moldings are "offset" to be flush with the surface of this overlay skin. There's a 1/2" wide molding along the back edge at the wall to hide gaps. The same ply is used along the toe kick with mitered corners. A 1/4 round molding is used at the bottom of the toe kick to hide the floor gaps. It's all brad nailed or pin nailed in place.

You can order doors off the internet or any local cabinet shop will make them for you to your specifications.

The finish on this project is clear lacquer sprayed on with an HVLP system. The wood is Red Birch. Look in your local yellow pages and find the wood supplier for the local cabinetmakers and you can buy everything in one place.

It really isn't that difficult.
 
Molding set I have for a router would cut those doors with little problem. 1x2s for the sides, 1x3 or 1x4 for the top, scroll saw the radius, then use the router for the profile.

Make the four sides, then insert 1/8" plywood or paneling. Glass works too. Stained or leaded glass if you can make it or buy it.
 
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Display and storage cabinet for a friends awards
black cherry

all hand cut joinery and glue, no metal in this except for the drawer knobs
 
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The wood is "spalted" which means it started to rot before it was dried and stabilized. The streaking is from fungus coloring the wood. Some turners create their own spalted bowl blanks by piling compost on one end of the log slice.

I've worked with spalted wood a few times but I'm slightly allergic to molds and the aftereffects aren't pleasant. I gave up eventually.

Somewhere hidden in one of my rat holes full of junk is a painting I did a couple of decades ago. I'm trying to find it but haven't been successful so far.

May have been 10 years, but I've learned something on lit again. So you infect the wood with mould to allow colour I'm assuming in the most recent rings first, then guess it done and finally kill it off?
 
May have been 10 years, but I've learned something on lit again. So you infect the wood with mould to allow colour I'm assuming in the most recent rings first, then guess it done and finally kill it off?


You let it sit on the ground and naturally rot.
My bowls were from a log pile that sat for a couple years before we got around to cutting them into firewood.
The beech they were made from went really quick. The dark circle is the centre that hasn't rotted yet.
When the wood dries the mould dies and the rotting stops.
Trick is to catch it at the right time before it falls apart
 
Cabinet would be the same basic steps as this side table I made from stock boards and shelf trim, but with a lot more material, time and detailing.


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(Crappy cell phone picture and lighting from Sun glare through the window)
 

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You let it sit on the ground and naturally rot.
My bowls were from a log pile that sat for a couple years before we got around to cutting them into firewood.
The beech they were made from went really quick. The dark circle is the centre that hasn't rotted yet.
When the wood dries the mould dies and the rotting stops.
Trick is to catch it at the right time before it falls apart

Do you let them sit in full rounds, or was it originally a length log you never trimmed up?
 
Full logs

If you get it right you can cut some pretty neat boards for table tops and such

Just stuff you need to keep an eye out for

I've got some rounds for firewood at the cabin that I should bring home to the shop.
 
Cabinet would be the same basic steps as this side table I made from stock boards and shelf trim, but with a lot more material, time and detailing.


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(Crappy cell phone picture and lighting from Sun glare through the window)

That's very nice!!! Especially considering it was made from off the shelf bits.
 
It's super simple. A few Oak 1x2s for the legs, supports and foot boards with glider feet underneath. A sheet of 4x4 Oak Plywood cut down and some Oak Bullnose shelf trim mitered at the corners. Probably $50-75 in materials and a few hours work. No stain, just clear polyurethane I already had.

The vase and bowls (some crystal) came from a local flea market. No one item was more than $5
 
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I finally got around to doing some linework for that comic I'm thinking about doing. I couldn't make myself keep drawing THAT shittily but I tried to keep the same style. But now with like... room for organs, gravity, and a body on the chick that is actually hot rather than like... whatever the fuck that style thinks people look like. I just could not force myself to do hentai anatomy for more than that one sketch of spite. Like yes, the exaggeration is stylized, I get it, and I tried to capture that but there's a difference between "stylized" and eyebleedingly bad.

I haven't actually looked into pornhub though, so I'm actually not super sure if I'm going to post it there. I just am gonna try to make at least one passable image tonight because I have to stay up all night because of some shit in meatspace.

 
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