Venice: Death by tourists

cheerful_deviant

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Authors Claim Tourism Is Killing Venice
Book: 'Venice Is World's Most Touristed City'
POSTED: 4:19 PM EDT July 27, 2004
UPDATED: 5:00 PM EDT July 27, 2004



Imagine New York City invaded by more than 1.5 billion tourists annually: what would the effect be on New Yorkers and on how they feel about their city?


The question may sound far-fetched, but something analogous happens regularly in Venice, Italy, according to Robert Davis, professor of history at Ohio State University.

Every year, Venice receives more than 200 outside visitors for every permanent resident, Davis said.

If New York City, with its population of more than 8 million, received that many visitors per resident, the result would be more than 1.6 billion tourists flooding its streets every year.


"Every year Venice becomes more like an amusement park and less livable for Venetians. As a society, I can't say that Venice still functions anymore."
- Robert Davis Author


It's no wonder that tourism may be killing Venice.

"Every year Venice becomes more like an amusement park and less livable for Venetians," Davis said. "Of course it still exists as a city. But as a distinct culture, as a society, I can't say that Venice still functions anymore."

Along with Garry Marvin, an anthropologist at the University of Surrey Roehampton in England, Davis is author of the book "Venice, The Tourist Maze: A Cultural Critique of the World's Most Touristed City."

In the book, the authors argue that the Venice tourists see is hardly the historical Venice that many think they have come to experience.

Most of the original Venetian culture has been swept aside, replaced by a tourist "monoculture," dedicated almost entirely to serving the 13 to 14 million outsiders who descend each year on the city of only about 65,000 permanent residents.

In a sense, the book is a case study of how modern, mass tourism can transform a place, Davis said.

"Venice is a most extreme example of the "touristification" that is happening all over the world. Moreover, while cities like New York, Paris, and London draw millions of visitors, they also have enough of their own social, cultural, and economic activity to absorb the impact of tourism -- Venice doesn't," Davis said.

In their book, Davis and Marvin explore the workings of much that make Venice unique -- its history, topography, traditions, and festivals, as well as its problems with flooding, degradation, and pollution.


In the process, they reveal how closely tied tourism has been to all of these aspects of the city, both now and in the past.

Visitors to Venice tend to congregate around three major sites: Piazza San Marco, the Rialto Bridge, and the Accademia Gallery.

Together, they form what the authors jokingly call the city's "Bermuda Shorts Triangle."

"It's what one might call 'Tourist Venice,'" Davis said, "except that the entire city is by now so overrun with foreigners that you could apply the same label to the whole place."

Piazza San Marco used to be the hub of Venetian life, where residents gathered to socialize and do business and politics.

The square was once filled with Venetians selling and buying an endless variety of goods and services, from fish to live chickens to on-the-spot dental work.

Now, however, to accommodate the millions of tourists each year, the square has been stripped and contains nothing but the visitors who wander around, taking pictures.

"San Marco, like other parts of the city, has been largely emptied of the significance, symbolic or functional, that it once held in Venetian life," Davis said. "And the only shops around San Marco today are those that cater directly to tourists -- there is nothing left there for the day-to-day needs of Venetians."

Another striking example of how tourism overwhelms local culture, Davis noted, is the gondola, one of Venice's most recognizable symbols.

At one time, gondolas were how Venetians traveled around their city's famous canals.


Now, Davis said, gondolas are strictly for tourists, and they aren't even a means of transportation -- they run pre-set routes that give a gondola "experience" without going anywhere.

"It's virtually impossible to get a gondolier to take you on a spontaneous tour of the canals. They just don't do that. And residents certainly don't use them to get around anymore," Davis explained.

But if a gondola ride is no longer an authentic Venetian experience, the tourists don't seem to mind, Davis said.

"People aren't disappointed that the gondola doesn't go anywhere, or that they have loud motorized boats going by, or that it is uncomfortable in the hot summer sun. That all seems beside the point. A gondola ride is an obligation that tourists have to fulfill if their visit to Venice is to be complete and successful. If they do that, they're happy," he said.

Davis acknowledged that claims that tourism is killing Venice go back a long way.

In the late 1800s, Henry James complained about the "trooping Barbarians" that were invading Venice during high tourist season.

But even if the problem was identified long ago, no one can deny the situation is getting worse.

While Venice had an estimated 10 million visitors a year in 1990, this is expected to increase to 15 million by 2005.

On at least 100 days a year, more than 40,000 outsiders come to the city, enough to produce human gridlock in the center, as the narrow streets are packed to near immobility by the hordes of sweaty visitors.

"Yet the tourists mostly don't seem to mind the crowds," Davis noted. "They largely accept the city as a giant strip mall and are happy to find all the tourist trinkets available to buy on every side, even though most of this touristware was actually made elsewhere."

At this point, Davis said, it is unlikely that anything can be done to undo the damage already created by the tourist onslaught.

And even if Venice could somehow slow the tide of tourists, it is questionable whether it would.

"It is obvious that those who are making the bucks off tourism are very often Venetians themselves," he said. "As tempting as many locals may find it to blame outsiders for exploiting their city, much, if not most, of the selling out of Venice is still being done by Venetians. Everything in Venice, it seems, comes down to tourism."
 
I think we have the same proportions at Old Orchard Beach, dude. But all at once! The summer barely lasts Memorial Day to Labor Day.

cantdog
 
This is why I prefer going to Venice in the winter (Dec./Jan. so far). There are virtually no crowds and it is obvious all the campi are frequented with Venetians (grandparents and bambinos, school kids, etc.)

Last time I took a boat to the island with the Armenian monestary. There were only eight of us and the monk that led the tour said everything in Italian, English and Armenian.

I love walking about in Venice and feeling as if I'm the only person there (easy to do in the wintertime).

Once I was sitting at a cafe and an interesting looking woman commented on my jewelry (Mexican silver). She was surprized to learn I was a tourist, thought I was European. Made my day.

Perdita
 
perdita said:
This is why I prefer going to Venice in the winter (Dec./Jan. so far). There are virtually no crowds and it is obvious all the campi are frequented with Venetians (grandparents and bambinos, school kids, etc.)

Last time I took a boat to the island with the Armenian monestary. There were only eight of us and the monk that led the tour said everything in Italian, English and Armenian.

I love walking about in Venice and feeling as if I'm the only person there (easy to do in the wintertime).

Once I was sitting at a cafe and an interesting looking woman commented on my jewelry (Mexican silver). She was surprized to learn I was a tourist, thought I was European. Made my day.

Perdita

That was going to be my first question on this post, "When is the best time to go? Is there any good time to go?" I would love to go sometime in the next few years, probably won't make it but I can dream.

I knew I could count on you P. :) Thank you.

BTW, what is the weather like there in the winter?
 
This - to a lesser degree - is so true of many places. The odd thing is that most of these 'tourists' know so little about, or have taken time to explore the treasures and beauty of their own country. It seems to be a 'keep up with the Joneses', or 'one-upmanship' thing to be able to boast, "Venice you say? Oh! We went there last year, we're going to Saigon this year."

And the same inhabitants that complain about the tourists are usually almost totally dependant on it, because their economy has been built on it.

(Edited - I actually caught a spelling error)
 
Teenage Venus said:
And the same inhabitants that complain about the tourists are usually almost totally dependant on it, because their economy has been built on it.

This is very similar to my area. I live fairly close to Cape Cod, my family had a house there until recently. I would get so sick of the people who bought a summer house down ther two years ago, spend 3 weeks a year there and now bitch about the 'Tourists'.

Excuse me, if you don't live here more than 50% of the year and haven't lived here for more than 5 years, you're a tourist too.

And as far as the locals bitching about the tourists... again, excuse me, if it weren't for the tourists, you would all be unemployed. Tourism makes up about 90% of all industry.

If you live in a tourist area, deal with it, it ain't gonna get any better. Don't like it... move.
 
Teenage Venus said:
And the same inhabitants that complain about the tourists are usually almost totally dependant on it, because their economy has been built on it.

There's a secret society in Maine. They put up highway signs, parodies of highway signs, on the Interstate coming in at Kittery. "Entering Maine - Spend your money, then go home." or "Welcome to Maine! Now you've seen it." Other things, some clever, some not. The state cops have to notice them and remove them from time to time. Their name is KPOOM: Keep People Out Of Maine. The KPOOM noise is the sound of the Kittery bridge going up in a big explosion. They are nonserious. People write letters to the editor in the Portland paper purporting to come from them. Lets off steam and gets a laugh. Homeland security might not have a sense of humor, though.

cantdog
 
AsCantdog and Cheerful D have pointed out, tourists outnumbering locals is nothing new to vacation areas of the US and, I would suspect, to many locales in Europe. The town where we summered had 580 permanent residents and handled thousands in the summer.

But most of these places are resort oriented with lots of outdoor activities that is the primary attraction. One of the givens here in the US is that a significant number of businesses close 'out of season'. Many of the workers and owners then move south to a winter location where they serve the 'snowbirds'.

Others just make their living off the short tourist season and hibernate the balance of the year. The article mentions nothing about cyclical employment and businesses. I wonder how the Venetians have adapted.
 
OldnotDead said:
I wonder how the Venetians have adapted.
Old, many have left town. I spoke at length to the woman who was surprized that I was American. She said Venetians cannot afford to shop in the city, they have to go 'outside' for groceries, etc., which is very inconvenient given the public transportation. Over the years many (don't know the percentage) have moved to neighboring cities and commute (via water) to Venice.

As a tourist I took my time finding shops that were not tourist-oriented wherein I found truly artistic masks, glassware, jewelry, other crafts. And usually I paid the artist directly, vs. a salesclerk, and could ask them about their work.

One time I went into a tiny out of the way shop that displayed glass rings and pendants unlike any others I'd seen. The artist was working in a corner making a glass objet d'art, flame-thrower in hand. Covering half the tiny room's floor was a baby carriage with a sleeping baby. While I was looking at the rings (I bought one) a woman came in, the wife/mother. We all talked (well, not the baby) and I found out he was a native who'd gone off to university, had a career in Rome but came back to Venice, learned his craft and was now making a living.

I discovered another shop, also away from the madding crowd, owned and run by a beautiful young woman who made hats and shoes. The items were exquisite, unique and beautiful. I envied her life truly. I also bought two hats and two scarves.

So, perhaps there is hope.

Perdita
 
Perhaps they could put up a limit, like there are limits for how many people can ride in ana elevator at one time..?
 
I have lived in several 'tourist areas.' The sad truth is that a flood of visitors destroys the attractions that brought the visitors in the first place. Eventually, the only way that a local can make a living is directly/indirectly off the tourists. Then, while the locals milk the tourists, they complain about the fact that the tourists have spoiled their area.

The process is called a 'death spiral.'
 
R. Richard said:
I have lived in several 'tourist areas.' The sad truth is that a flood of visitors destroys the attractions that brought the visitors in the first place. Eventually, the only way that a local can make a living is directly/indirectly off the tourists. Then, while the locals milk the tourists, they complain about the fact that the tourists have spoiled their area.

The process is called a 'death spiral.'

Tear down Venice to make room for the new theme park about Venice. :rolleyes:
 
Cheerf, I just saw your question re the weather. I had read there can be lots of rain in Venice in the winter. "Acqua alta" is common then; the Piazza floods and there are small portable 'bridges' all about that keep one above the water (which can be inches to a couple feet or more deep).

My ten days there in early January was all blue skies and spring-like. The next year I was there for a week and the skies were a bit grey but no rain at all. I wore a light wool coat, often unbuttoned. I think it has snowed in Venice but it's rare; winters there are nothing like east coast U.S. or northern Europe.

There are other off-season times, I'm sure any tourguide will mention them. Also, hotels are cheaper then.

best, Perdita
 
perdita said:
Cheerf, I just saw your question re the weather. I had read there can be lots of rain in Venice in the winter. "Acqua alta" is common then; the Piazza floods and there are small portable 'bridges' all about that keep one above the water (which can be inches to a couple feet or more deep).

My ten days there in early January was all blue skies and spring-like. The next year I was there for a week and the skies were a bit grey but no rain at all. I wore a light wool coat, often unbuttoned. I think it has snowed in Venice but it's rare; winters there are nothing like east coast U.S. or northern Europe.

There are other off-season times, I'm sure any tourguide will mention them. Also, hotels are cheaper then.

best, Perdita

Thanks P. :rose:

I much prefer to go to 'tourist' places in the off season whenever possible. I have gone to Cape Cod several times in the winter and really enjoy a drive to Maine in winter, especially on a snowy day, there's no one else on the roads.

I'm not a big fan of crowds and lines, takes most of the fun out of it for me. I always feel like sheep whenever I'm doing the 'tourist' thing.
 
Venetians will soon be able to rest easy. Once the motorboat wake erosion causes all of the Palacios on the Grand Canal crumble into the drink, the tourists will dry up--as will the obscene sums of money they drop into the venentian economy. Personally, if I was to travel to Italy, it would be Florence that I'd want to see.
 
OldnotDead said:
AsCantdog and Cheerful D have pointed out, tourists outnumbering locals is nothing new to vacation areas of the US and, I would suspect, to many locales in Europe. ...
Yes. We left Bath, in part because of the 365 days a year tourists.

The final straw was when we could not get a table in early November at our favourite restaurant because it had been fully booked for a party of 90 tourists who had come nine time zones to see our beautiful city.
 
Clare Quilty said:
Venetians will soon be able to rest easy. Once the motorboat wake erosion causes all of the Palacios on the Grand Canal crumble into the drink, the tourists will dry up--as will the obscene sums of money they drop into the venentian economy.

That reminds me of a article I read a few years ago about how Venice is actually sinking. The water level has risen signifigantly in the last several hundred years or so. So completly asside form the damage done to the canals by motor boat wakes, and the damaged caused by the vibrations of millions of feet on the stone walks, (yes, the vibrations of foot traffic are actually a signifigant cause of the decay of many historic buildings, plazas, etc.) Venice may dissapear someday anyway.
 
Clare Quilty said:
Venetians will soon be able to rest easy. Once the motorboat wake erosion causes all of the Palacios on the Grand Canal crumble into the drink, the tourists will dry up--as will the obscene sums of money they drop into the venentian economy. Personally, if I was to travel to Italy, it would be Florence that I'd want to see.
At the risk of pissing off Perdita, I would have to agree with CQ.

I think that Venice is probably the most overrated tourist destination in the world. Outside the Grand Canal and some interesting isolated pieces of architecture, Venice is one of the most banal and shapeless cities in Italy. It's not only the decay, it's the decay of building that weren't much to begin with. Venice has the mystique of its history, but there is none of it left.

In most cities I've visited, there's an entirely new world, far more interesting, once you get away from the pre-programed touristic routes. Venice is the exact oposite: you walk two hundred meters and, with the exception of the odd villa, there is nothing but anonymous decay.

Give me Florence or Sienna any day.
 
Canterbury

I live near Canterbury.

Canterbury Cathedral is one of the most visited historic places in the UK outside London.

The main street is crowded with tourists all day long every day of the year.

Canterbury has THREE World Heritage Sites. The Cathedral is one of them. You can walk round the other two in peace and quiet.

Canterbury has a Castle. Martyrs for both Roman Catholic and Protestant Christians were imprisoned there and some died in it. Few people go to it yet it is only half a mile from the Cathedral.

Tourists flock to the well-known sites and ignore the lesser known ones where they are likely to experience and understand far more. Time is their problem. If they visit Leeds Castle, Canterbury and Dover Castle in one day they cannot do justice to any of them. Each is worth a whole day.

Og
 
cheerful_deviant said:
That reminds me of a article I read a few years ago about how Venice is actually sinking.
Yes, it's been sinking for some time, and eventually will disappear; that's part of why I love it. Do you know what's holding it up? The first people there used tree trunks shaped into poles of various lengths pounded into the lagoon's floor. The palio (millions?) were lined up watertight next to each other and the 'floor' they created with their top surfaces is the actual foundation of Venice. Over the years the wood petrified. So it is an odd forest that the city balances upon.

Perdita

p.s. Laurencita, I am not pissed off and I will not rebutt your derisory comments. :)
 
perdita said:
p.s. Laurencita, I am not pissed off and I will not rebutt your derisory comments. :)
It's just my opinion. Based on what I [intensively] studied, on what I've seen with my eyes, and on conversations with Italian architecture students, but still just an opinion. ;) :kiss:
 
Lauren Hynde said:
In most cities I've visited, there's an entirely new world, far more interesting, once you get away from the pre-programed touristic routes.

I think this it true for many area, even those not considered tourist areas.

There are many towns here in New England that are definitly not tourist areas, old mill towns mostly and along the coast are old fishing towns.

But even the most run down mill town can still have some beautiful architecture if you know where to look. Right here in Providence here are many buldings that I marvel at and they are not very old by european standards. Most buildings in the states date back, at the most to the early 1800's and some back to the 1700's.

Being in construction I have perhaps more appreciation of just how much work went into these structure that were built before diesel engines and hydraulic power. I look at these brick and sandstone buildings and see the workmanship. There was a certian sence of pride that these men put into their work, something that is lacking today. Today it's all about production, slap it up fast and get paid for it, then on to the next.

Modern buildings, for the most part have no style at all. Big glass and steel boxes. Yuck. Yes, I know, some try to get artsy with big sweeping curves and dramatic angles but they can't compare to what was built years ago.

Walk around in an old city and look at what went into building these structures. Granite blocks weighing several tons each, lifted several stories into the air with only ropes and muscles. Stone caps on the roof, all carved by hand. Hand laid stone arches. The skills that made these things are almost gone from the world. No longer passed from father to son as they were in ages past. Once they are gone, I'm afraid they won't be comming back again.

Ok, end of pointless rambling.

CD :rose:
 
Originally posted by Lauren Hynde
In most cities I've visited, there's an entirely new world, far more interesting, once you get away from the pre-programed touristic routes.
San Francisco is such a place. One could spend a full day in my neighborhood and hear a dozen different languages, eat at twice that many different ethnic restaurants, shop at a few Chinese herbal shops, choose among various massage therapies, buy great second-hand clothes, sell or buy books at the best bookstore in SF second only to City Lights, drink at any of several Irish pubs, sit at one of a half-dozen cafes (not one of them Starbucks), walk by a lake in our neighborhood park or sit and play chess with old Russian men.

But no, the tourists go to Fisherman's Wharf or Macy's.

not complaining, Perdita
 
The area of England where I live (sorry, no references - self-preservation), is a very popular tourist area.

Local resident population, out of season......130,000.
In the summer, from the time schools are out??? the population goes up to over 1,000,000 at any one time over the 6 weeks of the school holidays. It gets so bad sometimes, I won't even venture out into town at lunch time to do errands, because I just can't be bothered to fight my way through the crowds.

And when its steamy hot as its been the last few days, I just sit and doze at my desk, in front of my fan.

I have a distinct dislike for tourists, although the area depends on them for financial survival.

Mat :rose:
 
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