Brush Cutter Suggestions?

[Biker_Type]

The only thing I know of that will kill blackberries is shade, although relentless overgrazing by goats might get the job done.

blackberries are a bitch to kill out with chemicals, usually try to cut ours in fall and spray in spring (this year with record heat and lack of rain i might have a chance). goats wold be an interesting 'green' option. keep us posted on your progress, E?

 

[SweetErika]

blackberries are a bitch to kill out with chemicals, usually try to cut ours in fall and spray in spring (this year with record heat and lack of rain i might have a chance). goats wold be an interesting 'green' option. keep us posted on your progress, E?

Why are they a bitch to kill with chemicals? What product(s) have you tried specifically for the blackberries and found to succeed or fail? Like I said, we'll try to avoid herbicides at all costs, but we may be forced to use them on one section. If that's the case, I definitely want something that's effective so we don't have to apply a bunch of nasty products in hopes that one will work.

Our unseasonably cloudy and cool weather this year has been problematic as well. It's led to our bushes growing up, out and around places they've never been before, just so they can find some light. They definitely stay more contained when it's sunnier and warmer. It was so cold this year that none of the berries even ripened. If we have to deal with the pain of these weeds, I at least want some deliciousness out the the bargain!

 

[twister947]

E, I use equal parts of Roundup (glyphosphate) and 2 4d, and get a pretty good top kill, but the roots live to fight another day. Google "blackberry control", and see what's recommended by the ag schools in your area.

 

[NippleMuncher]

Blackberries are typical of any other type of vine, they not only grow from the root tubers, they sprout anew wherever a cane touches the ground, this is why they're such prolific spreaders.

Just about any herbicide is going to knock back the top growth, but it's really hard to kill the root without either disturbing it or starving it by keeping the top cut to the ground. If you're going to use herbicides, I agree with twister about consulting with your local county extension office or other authority on such things.

One last word on using a goat. Goats eat the leaves which starves the plants. They don't eat the canes, at least nothing more than the tender parts. Where goats really come in handy is keeping the new, tender and succulent growth eaten back. Again, without the leaves, the plant starves and dies.

 

[SweetErika]

NM, I did some more reading on getting rid of NW blackberry brambles, and it looks like our best bet will indeed be applying a brush killer now, then using a combination of brush killer and cutting back. The goats would be a viable option one time, but it's simply not possible for us to have pet goats for weed control or keep paying to have them come back to eat the new growth.

There are lots of people in similar situations in the PNW who have tried everything and finally settled on a brush killer + cutting back, even though they're strongly opposed to the use of chemicals. With no kids or pets in that area and a quick dissipation time, I think some chemical assistance is reasonable for us, even though I don't like the idea at all. If we can get some control with an herbicide, we might be able to get by with a lighter-duty trimmer, too.

It looks like a lot of people have had great results with Ortho's brush killer, but I can certainly check with the authorities to see if there's something else that will work just as well or better for us.

 

[MyPinkBox]

Thanks, I'll check on those things.

I'm not fond of chemicals, but to be honest, I think it'd be great if we could just use Total Kill on the entire area. Unfortunately, there's a huge cedar and some other trees we actually want to keep in there, so that's impossible, too.

Clearly we didn't consider this crappy backyard and thicket when we bought the house (although it's way more overgrown now). Now our grand plan is to deck across the entire back of the house to the top of the yard, and do something with the yard once it's cleared out more, but that'll take at least two more years at the rate we're going.

Have you considered borrowing some goats? Or renting goats? I know you think I am being silly, but I am serious. Grew up on a farm. Goats will chow down on those thickets! Environmentally friendly, no chemicals.

 

[NippleMuncher]

There are lots of people in similar situations in the PNW who have tried everything and finally settled on a brush killer + cutting back, even though they're strongly opposed to the use of chemicals. With no kids or pets in that area and a quick dissipation time, I think some chemical assistance is reasonable for us, even though I don't like the idea at all. If we can get some control with an herbicide, we might be able to get by with a lighter-duty trimmer, too.

Without getting onto a soapbox about it, there is no such thing as a "quick dissipation time" chemical. Round-up is touted to kill and dissipate, but in reality it does not, it stays in the soil for a very long time. Also, while the base chemical itself may be short lived, they are combined with other far more toxic chemicals to enhance their application or kill characteristics. It is these other additives that tend to pose the greater risks. I won't fault anyone for using them, I've done it myself - more than once - but don't be deceived by their toxicity or longevity.

One other option that I've just remembered is to use a weed torch and burn the damn things. This may not be an option for you initially due to the size and quantity of the thicket, however this method works quite well and is a good alternative to chemicals, particularly once the land is cleared.

The idea is that you want to scorch the weed beyond its natural ability to heal itself. To wound the plant in this manner, it will literally bleed itself to death. Burning the weed to ash does nothing but remove the greenery from above ground, leaving the root system intact to burst forth with new growth. If you blister the surface of the leaves, it will quickly wither and die.

I bought an inexpensive torch from Harbor Freight, hook it to my BBQ tank and have at it. It works very well to get rid of things chemical free so that we, our dogs, and the chickens are not affected by chemical applications. I can give you more details if you're interested.

 

[SweetErika]

NM, I saw the torches on one of the tool rental sites.

I'd find burning preferable to chemicals provided we're not putting anyone or anything at risk by doing it (with plenty of precautions and common sense, obviously). That corner of our yard is bordered by older wood fences, our deck and house, a neighbor's home and another neighbor's garden. I wouldn't expect any houses to be at great risk unless some of the trees in the thicket and more open yard next to it caught fire (like I said, we have some enormous cedars, though only the ones outside of our thicket have branches that are close to our house). But I think the density of the brush and proximity to structures would kill our chances of getting Fire Department approval, and using any kind of fire back there could scare the hell out of our neighbors.

So, I guess my question is, how safe do you consider the burners when they're used properly, assuming the area isn't dry and another person is standing by with a hose and fire extingushers at all times? Does the torch only burn what you're pointing it at, or are incidental fires likely to spring up?

 

[NippleMuncher]

These torches get extremely hot and can set wet twigs on fire if you try. In a dry environment, they can certainly get out of control quickly.

I have not used mine in a large stand of blackberries or weeds, just spot treating weeds in the gravel of my driveway and sides of the street. In the winter/wet months, I have no problem venturing into the flowerbeds where bark and wood chips are. In the dry season that would be a no-go situation. If you wanted to go this route, I would wait until you get back into the rainy season and the fire danger is low. Fall would be the perfect time to do this when the plant is trying to store nutrients into the root system for the coming winter.

As to burning the plants themselves, you're only trying to scorch them, not set them on fire or turn them to ash, so the time spent in any one spot will be milliseconds. You'll see and hear the surface of the leaves bubble and pop. The woodier/tougher the plant is, the longer heat will be applied, but still, when you're talking about 10,000 to 20,000 btu burner, you won't be leaving it in one place for long. You will only be heating the live green leaves, don't bother with dead/wilty leaves, as those are no longer beneficial to the plant.

This is the burner I purchased.
http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-with-push-button-igniter-91037.html

I chose this one because it's got an igniter, valve to adjust flame intensity, and a "blast" trigger for full flame when needed. I checked it out really well before purchasing and feel that it was made well and safe to use. I don't recommend the cheaper one without the igniter because these things put out a big, hot flame, you really don't want your hand down there when you fire it off. The built in igniter makes this as safe as possible to start and use. Secondly, I strap my BBQ tank to a hand truck to make it more easily portable, rather than having to carry the tank which can get heavy quickly.

Using flame will kill the blackberries, but you will still have the dead canes to contend with once full death has occurred. You could relatively easily just pull your municipal trash can out there on the weekend and clip the dead canes directly into it. When the can is full, you're done for the week with the cutting. That would be easier than clearing the area, then having to handle the canes again to dispose of them.