"Because it's there."

Holy shit.
I sold crampons to a woman in the store who said she was going to be on Denali right now. She was going with a guided service.
Of course, not in gthe japanese party, but deadly nonetheles.
No real news.......I fear the worst....

"National Park Service rangers resumed their search Tuesday for two overdue Japanese climbers who were attempting to reach the summit of Mount McKinley up the challenging Cassin Ridge.

Flying aboard a fixed-wing aircraft under clear blue skies, the searchers took advantage of a second straight day of calm weather to retrace the route and photograph the mountain, park service spokeswoman Maureen McLaughlin said.

The climbers have been identified as Tatsuro Yamada, 27, and Yuto Inoue, 24.

High-resolution images can detect fine details in the snow, including footprints, that someone in a plane using a spotting scope might not see, McLaughlin said.

"It's been helpful, both in terms of detecting things and not detecting things -- because then we can be more confident that we've thoroughly searched certain areas and we can focus on others," she said.

Yamada and Inoue are two of five Japanese climbers who camped together on the popular West Buttress route to get acclimated in early May, then split into two teams that approached the 20,320-foot summit by way of the icy south face.

Three of the men followed the Slovak Direct route to the summit, which they reached 10 days ago. The missing men -- who haven't been seen since May 9 -- were attempting to climb the mountain via the Japanese Couloir variation of the Cassin Ridge.

They began their climb from the northwest fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, possibly as early as May 10, and were expected to return no later than May 22, according to the park service.

High winds and blowing snow that raked the mountain earlier this month have made the search more difficult, McLaughlin said.

"There are areas where footprints may have been, but we'll never see them because of the snow conditions," she said.

Also Tuesday on Mount McKinley, a climber from the Czech Republic who froze his hands was airlifted by a high-altitude Lama helicopter from 14,000 feet to the 7,000-foot base camp. He was flown from there by plane to a hospital in Anchorage.

Zdenek Soldan, 44, was the fifth person evacuated from McKinley due to injuries since the climbing season began in late April.

Climbers in Denali National Park pay a $200 registration fee that covers part of the cost of potential rescues.

As of Friday, 1,156 people had registered to climb Mount McKinley this year. The climbing season ends in early July."
 
Holy shit.
I sold crampons to a woman in the store who said she was going to be on Denali right now. She was going with a guided service.
Of course, not in gthe japanese party, but deadly nonetheles.

Strange experience, innit? Happened to me a few times when I was working retail, too. And then I had a student who feel to his death helping a client on Denali...first and only person I ever knew who died climbing.
 
Shit, shit, shit. I always hate to hear stories like this. I hope they're okay, though it's been an awfully long time to spend on the Cassin.



Gear improves steadily, but judgment is always the crucial factor. On a climb like the Cassin, the technical rock bit is below where these guys camped, so they should have been able to hike it from there. Whatever gear they were using, and I'm sure it was state-of-the-art, was evidently sufficient.

Also, it bears mention that where you were climbing may have been much more friable than on the Cassin...it's surprising how different the rock can be just a few meters to your left or right. Alaskan granite doesn't have an especially bad rep for being chossy; there are places that are far more universally shitty. What makes Denali a killer, as you rightly thought, is the weather, not so much the rock quality. The vast majority of folks who attempt it never touch rock. It's all snow and ice. But even on a relatively easy route like I attempted, the West Buttress, the weather can suddenly and completely destroy you. A 3=foot dump of new snow coupled with 70-mph winds is enough to pin anyone down, and if you add arctic temperatures into the mix, it gets seriously nasty.

Ja Perg we Arctic grunts called that wind the "HAWK". It would come up quickly and drop the fucking temp 60 degrees in minutes and if you started at -5 f even with arctic gear you were in danger of freezing. They taught us to either put up a tent if we had one or make a snow cave ASAP always carry a candle to heat the snow cave.
I was in Bethel Alaska as a Civilian doing a Financial Computer upgrade for the City, when I got caught out in the open only a mile from the hotel. it was early winter,No snow on the ground. I had a nice heavy parka, but only jeans with long johns. The Hawk hit. In mins I lost lost the feeling in my legs - I was only walking about a mile to the hotel., If a cabbie who already had a fare had not stopped to pick me up, I would not be typing this:eek:
 
Ja Perg we Arctic grunts called that wind the "HAWK". It would come up quickly and drop the fucking temp 60 degrees in minutes and if you started at -5 f even with arctic gear you were in danger of freezing. They taught us to either put up a tent if we had one or make a snow cave ASAP always carry a candle to heat the snow cave.
I was in Bethel Alaska as a Civilian doing a Financial Computer upgrade for the City, when I got caught out in the open only a mile from the hotel. it was early winter,No snow on the ground. I had a nice heavy parka, but only jeans with long johns. The Hawk hit. In mins I lost lost the feeling in my legs - I was only walking about a mile to the hotel., If a cabbie who already had a fare had not stopped to pick me up, I would not be typing this:eek:

Yup, it's the big leagues up there. Combine that shit with 80-degree bulletproof ice and you have some serious conditions.
 
Yup, it's the big leagues up there. Combine that shit with 80-degree bulletproof ice and you have some serious conditions.

ja I saw a smoke grenade once popped just in front of a ice fog gradient. The damn thing did not disprese. It just went up in a compact green column about 12 ft high about 12 inch wide. I swear you cut the damn thing with a bayonet!!!! As we looked across the valley we could see the fog coming toward us. We were praying the Helos got to us before the Ice fog did, because we were out of rations and water and were in the middle of nowhere (Ft Greely). We knew once that fog hit us it would be days before we could be extracted. We fucking did not even have tents nor yukon stoves- no way to keep warm. Never so glad to see a Huey in my life:D

It was sooo cold, just the few seconds it took to unload my M-16, i.e. take my hands out of my arctic mittens, the blood froze in my finger tips. SHIT! when I stuck them under my armpit to warm them the blood coming back into the capilaries HURT LIKE HELL:mad:
 
ja I saw a smoke grenade once popped just in front of a ice fog gradient. The damn thing did not disprese. It just went up in a compact green column about 12 ft high about 12 inch wide. I swear you cut the damn thing with a bayonet!!!! As we looked across the valley we could see the fog coming toward us. We were praying the Helos got to us before the Ice fog did, because we were out of rations and water and were in the middle of nowhere (Ft Greely). We knew once that fog hit us it would be days before we could be extracted. We fucking did not even have tents nor yukon stoves- no way to keep warm. Never so glad to see a Huey in my life:D

It was sooo cold, just the few seconds it took to unload my M-16, i.e. take my hands out of my arctic mittens, the blood froze in my finger tips. SHIT! when I stuck them under my armpit to warm them the blood coming back into the capilaries HURT LIKE HELL:mad:

This post made me grin in soldierly sympathy.

Climbers call that reperfusion ache the "screaming pukes." I have rarely experienced worse pain in my life. It's just ghastly, and when it happens while you're finishing a pitch and actually need to do stuff with your hands, man, it just sucks ass.
 
Today's link froze up my computer for a bit, but it was worth it. Very cool. I can tell I've read too much Everest stuff the past 6 months... I was trying to identify landmarks in the panorama.
 
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Rangers suspend search for missing climbers

"The National Park Service suspended the search for two missing Japanese climbers on the Cassin Ridge of Mount McKinley this morning after determining searchers were unlikely to locate the men.

Mountaineering rangers will continue using digital images collected during the last week to try to find the climbers or their remains.

Tatsuro Yamada, 27, and Yuto Inoue, 24, were expected to return from a climb of the Cassin Ridge a week ago. In a discussion with Denali rangers a month before their climb, Yamada and Inoue said they planned to take five to six days of food and fuel on the Cassin Ridge. Normally, teams making a quick, technical ascent of the route take minimal gear.

Based on the dated journal entries, the men probably left their camp at 7,800 feet as early as May 10. That means they have been without food and water as long as 14 days, and search managers consider survival impossible at subzero temperatures with limited supplies.

The National Park Service began planning the search on Friday, and from Saturday to Tuesday, searchers flew 33 hours in helicopters and airplanes. Neither the climbers nor any gear was spotted on or near the route. No evidence of a fall or disturbed snow was seen either, the Park Service said.

More than 3.000 high-resolution photos of the search zone were taken during these flights. Analysis of the enlarged and enhanced images will continue on the ground.

Park Service official believe Yamada and Inoue reached the upper elevations of the route. They saw several sets of footprints and a campsite at 17,000 feet. Tracks followed by a subsequent climbing party reportedly reached upward of 19,000 feet.

Also, during a low-level flight Wednesday, mountaineering rangers in the Park Service's Lama helicopter discovered tracks traversing the 5-mile length of the Kahiltna Peaks.

According to the journals Yamada and Inoue left in camp, the team had intended to approach their route via that knife-edge ridge, which tops out at 13,440 feet. The tracks follow the dramatic ridgeline and connect with the Cassin Ridge, indicating the duo accomplished a difficult and highly technical new variation on the traditional approach."

:(
 
Have you seen 'The Bucket List?"

:)

"canned"...:)
I haven't. What's the reference?
It sounds fabulous, Perg! I'm glad you're going to make good use of the kayaks. :)


Today's link froze up my computer for a bit, but it was worth it. Very cool. I can tell I've read too much Everest stuff the past 6 months... I was trying to identify landmarks in the panorama.
I was doing the same thing, but my knowledge of it is older than yours, so I wasn't very successful.
"The National Park Service suspended the search for two missing Japanese climbers on the Cassin Ridge of Mount McKinley this morning after determining searchers were unlikely to locate the men.

Mountaineering rangers will continue using digital images collected during the last week to try to find the climbers or their remains.

Tatsuro Yamada, 27, and Yuto Inoue, 24, were expected to return from a climb of the Cassin Ridge a week ago. In a discussion with Denali rangers a month before their climb, Yamada and Inoue said they planned to take five to six days of food and fuel on the Cassin Ridge. Normally, teams making a quick, technical ascent of the route take minimal gear.

Based on the dated journal entries, the men probably left their camp at 7,800 feet as early as May 10. That means they have been without food and water as long as 14 days, and search managers consider survival impossible at subzero temperatures with limited supplies.

The National Park Service began planning the search on Friday, and from Saturday to Tuesday, searchers flew 33 hours in helicopters and airplanes. Neither the climbers nor any gear was spotted on or near the route. No evidence of a fall or disturbed snow was seen either, the Park Service said.

More than 3.000 high-resolution photos of the search zone were taken during these flights. Analysis of the enlarged and enhanced images will continue on the ground.

Park Service official believe Yamada and Inoue reached the upper elevations of the route. They saw several sets of footprints and a campsite at 17,000 feet. Tracks followed by a subsequent climbing party reportedly reached upward of 19,000 feet.

Also, during a low-level flight Wednesday, mountaineering rangers in the Park Service's Lama helicopter discovered tracks traversing the 5-mile length of the Kahiltna Peaks.

According to the journals Yamada and Inoue left in camp, the team had intended to approach their route via that knife-edge ridge, which tops out at 13,440 feet. The tracks follow the dramatic ridgeline and connect with the Cassin Ridge, indicating the duo accomplished a difficult and highly technical new variation on the traditional approach."

:(

Shit. I guess the best we can hope for is that they had a moment of triumph before they lost it. Poor bastards.
 
I haven't. What's the reference?




Shit. I guess the best we can hope for is that they had a moment of triumph before they lost it. Poor bastards.

RE: Bucket list.......you need to see the movie.....i saw it on a whim on the plane, and now need to watch it on my tv at home where i can hear it......i don't wish to spoil it for you.........but the ending, is divine......

and a toast to those poor bastards on the mountain......
 
RE: Bucket list.......you need to see the movie.....i saw it on a whim on the plane, and now need to watch it on my tv at home where i can hear it......i don't wish to spoil it for you.........but the ending, is divine......

and a toast to those poor bastards on the mountain......

Will do, then. I thought it seemed like a pretty good idea.

Indeed. *lifts glass*
 
Will do, then. I thought it seemed like a pretty good idea.

Indeed. *lifts glass*

My boy was going to walk up Whitney this summer, but he has a scheduling problem. I suppose, he'll have to settle for some local peaks after he gets back up here this summer. There's something about sitting on top of the world (relative), looking down on other peaks, and talking with your son about life that's just very special.
 
My boy was going to walk up Whitney this summer, but he has a scheduling problem. I suppose, he'll have to settle for some local peaks after he gets back up here this summer. There's something about sitting on top of the world (relative), looking down on other peaks, and talking with your son about life that's just very special.

I can easily believe it. If I had a son it would be a regular part of our lives.
 
I can easily believe it. If I had a son it would be a regular part of our lives.

I didn't grow up that way. One 'spring' Sunday evening while xc skiing with my youngest (he was about 12 at the time), we stopped to admire the sun on the western horizon and I noticed it was 7pm. I told him I knew exactly what I'd have been doing when I was his age, and that was starting to watch "Wonderful World of Disney". I told him that sharing the sunset with him was a much better time.
 
I didn't grow up that way. One 'spring' Sunday evening while xc skiing with my youngest (he was about 12 at the time), we stopped to admire the sun on the western horizon and I noticed it was 7pm. I told him I knew exactly what I'd have been doing when I was his age, and that was starting to watch "Wonderful World of Disney". I told him that sharing the sunset with him was a much better time.

Nice. One of my regrets is not spending more time with my nephew, who is now 16 and maybe too old to show stuff like that and still have it be formative.
 
Nice. One of my regrets is not spending more time with my nephew, who is now 16 and maybe too old to show stuff like that and still have it be formative.

I do not think 16 is too old. It might be more work for you.
 
I do not think 16 is too old. It might be more work for you.

Yeah...but he lives across the country, in CT, so he's going to have to wait until Lady P and I move back that way, which may be a couple years...
 
Nice.....16 is a great age for a kayaking academy trip........

That's a great idea. I was thinking mountains, teaching him to backpack and stuff, but a kayak course might be even better, and he could do it close to home. There's a creek school in Massachusetts somewhere.
 
That's a great idea. I was thinking mountains, teaching him to backpack and stuff, but a kayak course might be even better, and he could do it close to home. There's a creek school in Massachusetts somewhere.

i'm sure there are plenty of schools out east........if he took to it, he'd be transformed.....
 
i'm sure there are plenty of schools out east........if he took to it, he'd be transformed.....

I hope so. Last update from my sister has him singing in a "screamo" band, whatever that is. She says he does a great devil voice or something.
 
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