3 PC security questions

I linked to this, and I can't thank toyotomi enough...I actually run several of the recommended antispyware sites already, but it's great to have some more options. And thanks for the firefox extensions ideas, as well.... I think it's worth giving this post a bump every now and then...Thanks!:kiss::rose:
:rose:

Holy crap this is gonna be a long post...



Yes you can get caught. Even if you used an encrypted proxy on your PDA if they saw an external device accessing a bunch of different proxy servers through the router they could start keeping an eye out for someone using something like a PDA and could catch you like that, or at the very least could become suspicious. In any case it's a very very bad idea to use a work PC for anything other than Work. This is something that I have a very hard time forcing myself to do, but when all is taken into consideration it's the only way to go. If you use a PC they have access to, then I would recommend that you don't use it for literally ANYTHING other than work. As previously pointed out they can access the screen to see what you see, they can monitor the connection, and here's the big thing, even if you oh say just log into your email address, they could potentially get your password if they are particularly unscrupulous. This also applies for anything like credit card purchases, or any kind of personal information that you don't want the IT guys to get a hold of. Play it safe and only use your own personal PC on your own personal network for anything personal (such as porn, email, purchases, etc.) In my opinion it isn't worth the risk, and besides, you could always save some material to your PDA at home and view it offline at work.



You actually have a lot of options here. Now first off I should say that depending on how tech savvy the younger ones are, never consider anything completely hidden. That said, there are plenty of free file encryptors that are WAY better than anything MS offers as part of windows or as part of programs like WinZip. I can't really offer any links or program recommendations for those though, because I haven't looked into encryption programs for years and I don't recommend what I can't be certain is a good program. However look around and be sure to read reviews and browse some tech forums to check out the general response to the quality of the software before downloading anything and you should be able to find something that will meet your needs.

As far as your WinXP login goes, make sure your account is an administrator account (better yet the actual "administrator" account) and that anyone else is using an account with lower permissions and as previously suggested by kindashy, you can set their permissions according with what you'd like for them to be able to access and not access. Also make sure to use a complex password that you won't forget but also won't be easily guessed by the younger ones.

Also, if you are at all worried about them being able to find material on their own and not just things that you've downloaded, then there are also quite a variety of programs that will block adult (and other) sites from them. They are far from flawless though, and can be circumvented in most cases if they know enough. Once again I can't make a recommendation on this note, but I do know there are some that are considered reasonably reliable.



DON'T use Norton. Please believe me it's not a good idea. Their software isn't anywhere near as good as it used to be and they also conduct some unscrupulous business practices that (arguably) potentially actually create more security risks. And besides there are many better and FREE alternatives.

Now here's the long part of my post (yeah... before this was short and sweet):
I have a long history with making my computers secure as possible. And as temp256 said (despite the spitefulness) there is no such thing as a completely secure PC and least of all a completely secure Windows PC. The only way it will be secure is for it to remain unplugged.

That said, you can take measures to make it as secure as possible, and this is what I can really make some good suggestions on. I would also point out that I am of the belief that nobody should have to pay for computer security, and so all of my suggestions will be free or have free versions. (with one exception)

First off is Anti-Virus programs. I highly recommend AVG Free. It's always served me well over the years and I don't see much of a point in buying the full version as it doesn't add that much more to your security. I've never heard anything about AVG not being able to clear viruses hiding in the boot sector, and as I stated I really do trust the program. However if you don't/can't trust AVG, then my suggestion to you would be to (and it's the only one that's not free) would be to get NOD32. They have a free 30 day trial, and it's not terribly expensive. From what I've read and heard from people who know even better than me, NOD32 is really the best Antivirus program you can get right now. I don't know that you'd see a truly significant benefit from getting it as opposed to AVG Free, but if you really want the best and don't want it free, then I'd say this is your best bet.

Secondly is Anti-Malware (Anti-Spyware etc.). This is a long (really long) list, and I personally use every one of these programs. To start basic make certain you have all your Windows Updates including Service Pack 2. Then get yourself Windows Defender. This is a program you should have running all the time and make sure to have it run scheduled scans and automatically update.

Also get Spybot - Search & Destroy. Update it regularly, and use it to run scans for any malware (I'd recommend scanning once a week, but even I don't usually keep up to that frequency for tests but I keep it well updated). Make sure to use the Immunize feature as it will block your browsers and even your HOSTS file (blocking via the HOSTS file will stop bad connections at the first level on your machine. It's really the best way to blacklist sites/connections) from known harmful connections.

Ad-Aware Free is another must. It doesn't have any preventative measures, but it does conduct very thorough scans. Keep it updated and run scans regularly.

Spyware Blaster is a purely preventative measure. It serves a function similar to the Immunize feature of Spybot S&D, but it doesn't modify the HOSTS file and will compliment the Spybot S&D's Immunization nicely to provide added security. It isn't a program that runs in the background or anything, you just run it, update it, enable the protection and close it. You can then forget about it until you update it again. And make sure to keep it updated regularly.

AVG Anti-Spyware (formerly known as ewido), is an excellent malware scanner. Honestly it's one of the most thorough I've used. It comes with a 30 day trial of the pro version and then reverts to the free version when the trial runs out. There isn't TOO much point in getting the pro version, but if you really want to and don't mind the cost then go for it. At least get the free version and update regularly and run regular scans.

Now on to the subject of Firewalls. Until recently I too used ZoneAlarm. For the longest time I've had a problem with my internet connection where I'd have to reboot to connect anything to the internet after a while. Honestly it was never enough of an annoyance to do anything about but I finally got fed up and found out ZoneAlarm was the cause. I then found out about an even better firewall that is completely free (no pay version at all... 100% free) and surpasses ZoneAlarm in quality. I used to recommend ZA all the time, and now I finally recommend something above it. The program I'm speaking of is called Comodo Firewall Pro. It can be a bit of a pain to setup and get all of your good programs defined to be allowed, but after you do it runs well and will stay out of your hair while keeping you safe. The dialogs and alerts to programs seeking permissions are almost exactly the same as ZoneAlarm's. For programs you know you can trust use the slide-down menu and select "Treat as "trusted application". Otherwise it's the usual "allow" "deny" choices you're used to from ZA. Now Comodo has basically two features, Firewall, and Defense+. I suggest setting both of them to "Train with Safe Mode" This will give you the least hassle and still keep you just as protected. Also take the time to browse their forums for tips and advice as they probably have answers to most questions you may have. Since you are already having problems with ZoneAlarm I really recommend you give Comodo a try. If you use ZA or Comodo be sure to disable the Windows Firewall that comes with the OS.

Now, the next two programs aren't specifically security programs but can do their part to keep you more secure. The first is a file-shredder called Eraser. This program will overwrite a file you want permanently deleted with random 1's and 0's and render it irretrievable even by most forensic means. The US Department of Defense uses file shredders to destroy sensitive files on their hard disks and they typically use 7 passes of random 1's and 0's. This program however can (and I believe by default does) make 35 passes over the file exceeding the US DoD standards by 5 times. So yes, with this, you'll be able to erase your files better than the government does. Now this is useful for any file you may want to get rid of permanently but it's also good in a security sense too. If you get a program or file that a scanner or AV program can't delete, just give it a few passes with this and it goes bye-bye for good. Also useful if you end up with a file that you just think is a little fishy. Do be careful though when Erasing files, because you will NOT be able to get them back after you Erase them. I don't use this that often, but it is nice to have on hand. And in case you were wondering, when you delete a file on your computer, it doesn't actually go away. Just all references to that file are removed and it's treated as empty space leaving it open to be overwritten. Now if you are frequently adding new files, then chances are you will overwrite that space and the file will be mostly irretrievable. However if you use the right programs you can still retrieve files that have been deleted but not overwritten, and some files overwritten by regular means can be retrieved forensically. I also recommend using a program to overwrite your Hard Disks completely if you plan on giving them to someone or selling them so the person getting them can't retrieve information about you. (there's different programs I'd recommend for this purpose but it's not really relevant for your needs atm)

Last for this little section is a program called ATF Cleaner. This program will delete files from locations such as your Temp directories or other areas that will commonly clutter up your Hard Disks taking up unnecessary space. It's made for Win2k and WinXP only. It's a very light weight application and doesn't need to install onto your machine. Just save the .exe somewhere safe, and run it periodically to clear out that unneeded clutter. Select the "Select All" check box (look over the list first though) and hit the "Empty Selected" button to clean up. Also if you use Firefox, make sure to click the Firefox button at the top of that screen.

Finally, my last set of suggestions are for browsing the web. First off, if you use Internet Explorer for anything other than Windows Updates.... STOP. I can't really stress this enough. I could get into a debate on the subject for hours, but just take my word on this one and I promise you it's the right decision.

Now that I said what not to use, here's what you should use. Get Firefox, and use it for all your browsing other than Windows Updates.

I could recommend on ways to effectively cover your tracks and erase the proper files, but really, it's easier to just not leave any tracks in the first place. That's why I recommend the Firefox Extension Stealther. Using this little addon, all you have to do is hit a key combination that you can specify yourself (I set mine to Ctrl+Shift+Z since that doesn't interfere with any of my other programs or extensions) and then you will not leave any trace of your activities. It actually keeps any sites you visit or files you download or cached files from being written to any files on your computer in the first place. You can activate it in the Tools menu or you can even set it so it won't show up in the Tools menu and only work via the key combination. This is great if you start a session browsing normally and then switch to browsing sites you don't want people to know about. Just hit your key combination and surf as you please.

One must-have Extension for any installation of Firefox is Adblock. Using this extension you'll never have to worry about banner ad's or annoying graphics or flash animations again. You just right click (or in the event of a flash object use the tools menu to use the flash overlay and then left click the object) and select to block it. Using the asterisk modifier you can also block entire ad hosting sites. (for example: if you right click an ad and select to block it and the filter shows up as "www.ihatebannerads.com/asasdkfha/su4822134398/1.gif" then you can change the filter to "*ihatebannerads.com" (without quotes of course) and all ads will be blocked rather than that single ad with the generated url that will probably change the next time you load the page.) Using this extension I almost never see any banner ads that I don't want to see. Or heck I don't see any flash animations or pictures or graphics I don't want to see.

For Firefox extensions that's really the most basic setup considering your needs. I could give you some more links to extensions that would make your browsing even safer (if not a tiny bit more of a hassle to set up) but won't bother going into those details unless you really want me to.


Well, I think I've covered all of the bases for the most part. There are some more programs and tweaks I could recommend to help keep you even more secure and even help you overcome whatever is making your PC slow down, but this covers the immediate issues. As I said, all of the programs with the exception of NOD32 I use myself, and frequently. I've never had problems with them and would be happy to answer any questions related to any of my suggestions. Feel free to PM me with any questions or discussion on the subject.

Hope this wasn't WAY too much to read :D

PS: Yay, my first post and isn't it a doozy. Finally got drawn out of the shadows of lurking.
 
I linked to this, and I can't thank toyotomi enough...I actually run several of the recommended antispyware sites already, but it's great to have some more options. And thanks for the firefox extensions ideas, as well.... I think it's worth giving this post a bump every now and then...Thanks!:kiss::rose:
:rose:

Well you're welcome. I'm quite pleased that someone got some use out of that list.

I recently put together a little google page (because I've ended up giving out the same advice on so many different forums.) of most of these links with some updates from when I typed that reply. It's new and I plan on re-doing most of the descriptions and whatnot but the basics are there with some important info. Anyway, if anyone's interested HERE is is.
 
Firefox can and will delete your browsing history and cookies and everything by itself without any add on.

In the options is a setting for "always clear my private data when I close firefox". All you have to do is learn all your favourite websites and passwords :p

Not a brilliant idea to use the works wi fi though...sorry.
 
no way?

It's a wireless connection. There is no way to trace it back to you without forcing you to log in. In fact, don't even bother with proxies if you're on your own wireless computer.

Never say never.

Two words:

MAC address.


(Ok....one word and one acronym.)

Any wireless connection will give the MAC address of the client device to the wireless access point. While MAC addresses are not unique worldwide, they'll be unique enough within an organization that they'll be able to trace any give data packet to one specific device. If that happens to be your personal device, then you're screwed.


CD
 
Slow computer...

And the whole PC is slow as ****. So I thought I'd try to kill two birds with one stone with a single package.

If your computer is already slow as ****, installing Norton on it will probably send it back in time.

It may be slow because you don't have enough memory, or you're running out of hard drive space.
Right click My Computer, and select properties. In the window that comes up, look at the lowest section on the right hand side. It will tell you how much memory you have.
Now (assuming Windows Vista, XP, or 2000) press Control-Shift-Escape.
This will bring up the task manager. Click the performance tab, then look at the bottom left graph (labelled "PF Usage" on XP). If this number is higher than the RAM number you got from computer properties, you need more memory.

If your hard drive gets down to 5% free space or less, the computer will slow down. I just fixed a machine for a customer that had got down to 600MB free space (less than a full CD) on a 160GB drive. Dog slow. Like, 5 minutes to log in slow. Installed a second drive, and moved all their media files to it, and all of a sudden the computer is something like 4 times faster, and logon times are down to under 30 seconds.

CD
 
No point to deleting it really, (since I quoted it) and G-Mail does seem to be a good suggestion for people who don't want IT techs reading their e-mail (it won't really stop them, but it makes them work for it.)

IT guys WORK?Lol right. Maybe at hiding themselves napping.
 
If your computer is already slow as ****, installing Norton on it will probably send it back in time.

It may be slow because you don't have enough memory, or you're running out of hard drive space.
Right click My Computer, and select properties. In the window that comes up, look at the lowest section on the right hand side. It will tell you how much memory you have.
Now (assuming Windows Vista, XP, or 2000) press Control-Shift-Escape.
This will bring up the task manager. Click the performance tab, then look at the bottom left graph (labelled "PF Usage" on XP). If this number is higher than the RAM number you got from computer properties, you need more memory.

If your hard drive gets down to 5% free space or less, the computer will slow down. I just fixed a machine for a customer that had got down to 600MB free space (less than a full CD) on a 160GB drive. Dog slow. Like, 5 minutes to log in slow. Installed a second drive, and moved all their media files to it, and all of a sudden the computer is something like 4 times faster, and logon times are down to under 30 seconds.

CD

Thank you, CD...I think you just showed me why mine has been so sluggish, lately...it is a few years old, so it stands to reason that the memory is probably getting a bit full, which it apparently is. Thanks again!:rose:
 
Quick distinction: By memory he means RAM. RAM can't fill up. Hard disk space can and can prevent you from using virtual memory (aka pagefile) which is basically a section of the hard drive used in the same manner as RAM. I almost always have a larger pagefile than my total RAM.

Here's the thing. If you are running the same software on your computer you were running when you got it and it's just now running slow then the RAM isn't he problem. It is still enough. If it's always been slow, or if you've started using more RAM intensive programs that you weren't using when it wasn't slow, then it could need an upgrade.

Back in my original post I mentioned ATF Cleaner. The link is now invalid as a newer version has been released. Grab it from http://www.atribune.org/ and run it. Use the "select all" check box, and don't forget to use the Firefox and Opera buttons if you use either of those and also use the "select all" button for those as well. That will delete some of the unnecessary garbage piling up on your computer. Also try going through by hand to delete old stuff you don't need anymore if your hard drive is getting full.

The big thing for slowing your computer down from a full HDD is if it's your C: drive that's full. That one you really have to keep with a fair amount of space like cd1_christine said. On my systems I get a small fast HDD for my C: drive (raptor drives from western digital) and then get other larger hard drives and use those to install third party programs like games, and to store data on. Right now I have a 300GB drive, a 200GB drive and a 120GB drive that I use for mass storage... and they are all just about full. Which reminds me I need to look into getting a Terabyte drive.. might actually take me a while to fill that one up.

You may also need to defrag your hard drive if you haven't done that in a while as that can also have an effect on performance.
 
Thank you, toy, I did get the ATF cleaner, so will see if that helps. I'm also checking my harddrive as well...


Quick distinction: By memory he means RAM. RAM can't fill up. Hard disk space can and can prevent you from using virtual memory (aka pagefile) which is basically a section of the hard drive used in the same manner as RAM. I almost always have a larger pagefile than my total RAM.

Here's the thing. If you are running the same software on your computer you were running when you got it and it's just now running slow then the RAM isn't he problem. It is still enough. If it's always been slow, or if you've started using more RAM intensive programs that you weren't using when it wasn't slow, then it could need an upgrade.

Back in my original post I mentioned ATF Cleaner. The link is now invalid as a newer version has been released. Grab it from http://www.atribune.org/ and run it. Use the "select all" check box, and don't forget to use the Firefox and Opera buttons if you use either of those and also use the "select all" button for those as well. That will delete some of the unnecessary garbage piling up on your computer. Also try going through by hand to delete old stuff you don't need anymore if your hard drive is getting full.

The big thing for slowing your computer down from a full HDD is if it's your C: drive that's full. That one you really have to keep with a fair amount of space like cd1_christine said. On my systems I get a small fast HDD for my C: drive (raptor drives from western digital) and then get other larger hard drives and use those to install third party programs like games, and to store data on. Right now I have a 300GB drive, a 200GB drive and a 120GB drive that I use for mass storage... and they are all just about full. Which reminds me I need to look into getting a Terabyte drive.. might actually take me a while to fill that one up.

You may also need to defrag your hard drive if you haven't done that in a while as that can also have an effect on performance.
 
You may also need to defrag your hard drive if you haven't done that in a while as that can also have an effect on performance.

One point about Defrag: Do NOT believe Defrag when it says your C: drive doesn't need defragging, always force a full defragmentation.

Your C: Drive might be only 1% fragmented, but it is probably the 1% of the drive windows is constantly using for updating files that is 100% fragmented and the other 99% of the drive isn't really relevant to Windows performance issues.

If your system is more than a year old, do a "find files and folders for *.log YOu'll find some log file that windows and other programs have been adding to every day since the day your computer was first assembled.

You also probably have a lot of files beginning with ~ and/or ending in .TMP -- those are file naming conventions for temporary files so they can be easily identified when you're cleaning up your dirve.

Deleting Log files and abandoned temporary files can open up an amazing amount of drive space if you haven't done it before.
 
Update for Zone Alarm

Now on to the subject of Firewalls. Until recently I too used ZoneAlarm. For the longest time I've had a problem with my internet connection where I'd have to reboot to connect anything to the internet after a while. Honestly it was never enough of an annoyance to do anything about but I finally got fed up and found out ZoneAlarm was the cause. I then found out about an even better firewall that is completely free (no pay version at all... 100% free) and surpasses ZoneAlarm in quality. I used to recommend ZA all the time, and now I finally recommend something above it. The program I'm speaking of is called Comodo Firewall Pro. It can be a bit of a pain to setup and get all of your good programs defined to be allowed, but after you do it runs well and will stay out of your hair while keeping you safe. The dialogs and alerts to programs seeking permissions are almost exactly the same as ZoneAlarm's. For programs you know you can trust use the slide-down menu and select "Treat as "trusted application". Otherwise it's the usual "allow" "deny" choices you're used to from ZA. Now Comodo has basically two features, Firewall, and Defense+. I suggest setting both of them to "Train with Safe Mode" This will give you the least hassle and still keep you just as protected. Also take the time to browse their forums for tips and advice as they probably have answers to most questions you may have. Since you are already having problems with ZoneAlarm I really recommend you give Comodo a try. If you use ZA or Comodo be sure to disable the Windows Firewall that comes with the OS.

Thanks for the info. I downloaded most of the programs you listed.
I also used to use ZoneAlarm but stopped using it for the reason you described.....Dave

Today I received an email from ZoneAlarm:
================================================
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO ZONEALARM CUSTOMERS

Dear Customer,

Installation of Microsoft Update KB951748 may result in loss of Internet connectivity.

Click here for more information on how to resolve this issue.
http://zonealarm.zonelabs.com/servlet/cc6?FgQUAYUQSVKHNLihUYxPHohhQJhuVaVR

We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused.

Thank you, ZoneAlarm

==================================================
 
If you want something that is really secure when it comes to encrypting files, consider using Truecrypt. It's open source (fully free that is), and very secure. Just make sure to unmount your volume if you leave your computer.

If done right, and you use a good password (>12 characters), and no major security holes will be found, nothing and nobody can break the encryption.
 
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