"Because it's there."

Mystery reopens as remains of Everest victim Andrew Irvine 'found'

From timesonline.co.uk:

"MOUNTAINEERING experts believe they have identified the final resting place of the most famous climber to go missing on Everest. After close scrutiny of aerial photographs, they believe they have spotted the frozen remains of of Andrew “Sandy” Irvine, who disappeared with his climbing partner George Mallory close to the summit in 1924.

Tom Holzel, the American making the claim, hopes that tucked inside the remaining clothing on Irvine’s blackened body will be a camera. If its film is intact and shows Irvine or Mallory on the summit, it would be worth a fortune. It would sensationally overturn the claim of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, a sherpa, to be the first conquerers of the mountain in 1953.

Holzel, 69, has spent three decades trying to solve the mystery of whether Mallory and Irvine died on the way up to the summit - or on the way down. Too old to attempt another climb himself, he wants to recruit a benefactor to lead an expedition to reach the “oblong blob” that he identifies as Irvine’s remains.

He said: “From all the treasure hunting clues we have followed, this new site fits the bill. We know exactly where we want to go using GPS co-ordinates.”

Mallory, 37, an Everest veteran credited with the remark that he wanted to climb Everest “because it’s there”, and Irvine, 22, are believed to have died when they fell, roped together.Mallory’s body was found in 1999 and buried on the slopes; Irvine’s has never been recovered, although a Chinese climber reported seeing it before dying in an avalanche himself.

This week appeals will be published in explorers’ newsletters and on mountaineering websites, seeking funds for an expedition to the spot identified by Holzel. He said: “We are looking for someone like [Sir] Richard Branson or a rich prince to lead the expedition. It will take crampons in the snow to get the final answer to this long quest.

“We will take our candidate to within 250 yards of the body, point out where it lays and film him finding Irvine, who appears to be lying on his back with his feet pointing towards the summit. All he has to do is fumble in the pocket, find the camera and bring it back. We will leave the body where it is.”

Irvine was known to be carrying a Kodak camera lent to him by another mountaineer. Holzel added: “Modern film would be ruined by cosmic rays but old fashioned celluloid that has been permanently frozen should be fine.

“A photograph of Mallory and Irvine at the summit would cause a sensation. Every newspaper in the world will want to carry it. It must be worth £1m.”

Audrey Salkeld, the British author of more than a dozen books on mountaineeringincluding Climbing Everest: Tales of Triumph and Tragedy on the World’s Highest Mountain and Mystery of Everest, said: “I am a little sceptical whether you can tell if it is a body from a blown-up aerial photograph.

“Tom is obsessed with this and anxious it should be solved but he is pinning his hopes on a camera. We don’t know how much it has been knocked about or even broken open.” "
 
From timesonline.co.uk:

"MOUNTAINEERING experts believe they have identified the final resting place of the most famous climber to go missing on Everest. After close scrutiny of aerial photographs, they believe they have spotted the frozen remains of of Andrew “Sandy” Irvine, who disappeared with his climbing partner George Mallory close to the summit in 1924.

Tom Holzel, the American making the claim, hopes that tucked inside the remaining clothing on Irvine’s blackened body will be a camera. If its film is intact and shows Irvine or Mallory on the summit, it would be worth a fortune. It would sensationally overturn the claim of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, a sherpa, to be the first conquerers of the mountain in 1953.

Holzel, 69, has spent three decades trying to solve the mystery of whether Mallory and Irvine died on the way up to the summit - or on the way down. Too old to attempt another climb himself, he wants to recruit a benefactor to lead an expedition to reach the “oblong blob” that he identifies as Irvine’s remains.

He said: “From all the treasure hunting clues we have followed, this new site fits the bill. We know exactly where we want to go using GPS co-ordinates.”

Mallory, 37, an Everest veteran credited with the remark that he wanted to climb Everest “because it’s there”, and Irvine, 22, are believed to have died when they fell, roped together.Mallory’s body was found in 1999 and buried on the slopes; Irvine’s has never been recovered, although a Chinese climber reported seeing it before dying in an avalanche himself.

This week appeals will be published in explorers’ newsletters and on mountaineering websites, seeking funds for an expedition to the spot identified by Holzel. He said: “We are looking for someone like [Sir] Richard Branson or a rich prince to lead the expedition. It will take crampons in the snow to get the final answer to this long quest.

“We will take our candidate to within 250 yards of the body, point out where it lays and film him finding Irvine, who appears to be lying on his back with his feet pointing towards the summit. All he has to do is fumble in the pocket, find the camera and bring it back. We will leave the body where it is.”

Irvine was known to be carrying a Kodak camera lent to him by another mountaineer. Holzel added: “Modern film would be ruined by cosmic rays but old fashioned celluloid that has been permanently frozen should be fine.

“A photograph of Mallory and Irvine at the summit would cause a sensation. Every newspaper in the world will want to carry it. It must be worth £1m.”

Audrey Salkeld, the British author of more than a dozen books on mountaineeringincluding Climbing Everest: Tales of Triumph and Tragedy on the World’s Highest Mountain and Mystery of Everest, said: “I am a little sceptical whether you can tell if it is a body from a blown-up aerial photograph.

“Tom is obsessed with this and anxious it should be solved but he is pinning his hopes on a camera. We don’t know how much it has been knocked about or even broken open.” "

It would be something if they found that camera, but I doubt they will, and even if they do, it would have been an act of climbing miracle for Mallory or Irvine to have made it up that route in those days. Conrad Anker tried to solo the technical bit without using the ladder the Chinese put up there and was unable to. He said it was probably 5.8--well within Mallory's ability at reasonable altitudes, as well as Anker's--but that at that altitude it felt like hard 5.10 and he was too weak from the "approach."
 
It would be something if they found that camera, but I doubt they will, and even if they do, it would have been an act of climbing miracle for Mallory or Irvine to have made it up that route in those days. Conrad Anker tried to solo the technical bit without using the ladder the Chinese put up there and was unable to. He said it was probably 5.8--well within Mallory's ability at reasonable altitudes, as well as Anker's--but that at that altitude it felt like hard 5.10 and he was too weak from the "approach."


I think that finding a camera on the body would be very cool, but I'd bet against it.
 
Artur Testov and Christine Feret are trying for a Winter Climb of McKinley (Denali), 6194m (20,320 feet). They will leave for the mountain Feb 22; this is the first woman attempt to climb McKinley in the winter.

Artur's Facebook page

ClimbAlaska

http://www.artur-testov-climbalaska.com/images/Chrisontree.jpg

Oi. They're going to freeze their asses off. Who was it that wrote the book about the first winter climb of Denali? I think the title is "Minus 148 Degrees..."
 
Oi. They're going to freeze their asses off. Who was it that wrote the book about the first winter climb of Denali? I think the title is "Minus 148 Degrees..."

Art Davidson.......he was on the mountain with Ray Genet and Dave Johnston
 
Amundson said, "Adventure was just bad planning"......and that's an adventure I will take a pass on.......

Yeah, for sure. I plan on NOT being on Denali in the dead of winter. I've grown rather fond of my fingers and toes over the years.
 
SKAMANIA, Wash. – Searchers recovered the body of a climber who tumbled 1,500 feet into the Mount St. Helens crater after a cornice gave way beneath him early Monday afternoon.
A helicopter crew managed to reach Joseph Bohlig during a break in the weather Tuesday after rescue efforts were thwarted by high winds and dangerous snow conditons the day before. They said Bohlig, 52, was dead when they finally got to him around 3 p.m. and could not be revived. Bohlig's body was airlifted off the mountain and then transported to the Clark County Medical Examiner’s Office for an autopsy, authorities said.
"We're sorry that he's gone, that he didn't make it," said Richard Bohlig, the climber's 84-year-old father. "He was doing something he enjoyed very much. That's all I can say."
Just moments before Bohlig fell, he had been celebrating a successful summit with his best friend and climbing partner Scott Salkovics - their 68th time atop St. Helens.

Salkovics said it was about 12:30 p.m. and a sunny day, but the climb had been especially difficult and took them an unusually long four hours.They were exhilarated to be at the top of the south rim and, after stripping off his backpack and a layer of clothing to cool down, Bohlig decided to pose for some photos.
That decision cost him his life.
Salkovics said Bohlig handed his camera to another climber and urged him to be sure to get Mt. Rainier in the background. Then he turned around and took one last step.

“'Boom,' it busted off and I saw him clawing for the edge with a startled look on his face, and then he disappeared,” recalled Salkovics, his voice cracking with emotion.
Another climber at the summit – a total stranger – heaved himself toward the edge and frantically waved his arms over the lip, hoping to grab Bohlig. But he was already gone, tumbling down the wall of the crater, which was covered with ice and jagged rocks.

“We had just talked about cornice safety that morning. I’m sure he assumed he was not on a cornice. He had warned others to watch for cornice cracks,” Salkovics recalled.
An Army rescue pilot himself, Salkovics quickly went into survival mode. He threw together a bag of supplies – an avalanche beacon, a jacket, food and water – and tossed it into the gaping hole. Then he called 9-1-1.
All dispatchers heard was “I’m on top of Mount St. Helens and we have an emergency…[call breaks up] a guy fell…” and then the call went dead.
However, that was enough to spark a rescue.

A rescue helicopter reached the summit about three hours later and spotted Bohlig about 1,500 feet below the lip of the crater. The pilot said the climber was in an upright position, but he wasn’t moving, even when they got close. No one could tell for sure if he had survived the fall.
"There was no movement of his head, no attempt to signal," said helicopter pilot Lt. Brooks Crawford.
The backpack that Salkovics had tossed into the crater was seen resting about 100 meters below Bohlig. One of the helicopter pilots said that there was no way Bohlig could have gotten to it.

Two rescue helicopters hovered over the crater at different times Monday afternoon, but the wind was blowing too hard for them to safely lower a rescuer to the fallen climber. They were forced to retreat with plans to return to the mountain Tuesday as soon as weather cleared.
Finally, the weather broke Tuesday afternoon and a waiting helicopter crew jumped into action. They flew into the crater and lowered a rescuer to Bohlig. But it was too late.
Investigators were hoping the autopsy would help them understand how and when Bohlig perished. Temperatures had dropped into the 20s Monday night in the crater and it would have been a major feat for anyone to survive in those conditions without a jacket, helmet or other survival gear.
Bohlig had a "passion" for climbing
Salkovics said Bohlig was always up for a fun climbing adventure and he was serious about safety.
It was Salkovics’ idea to climb on Monday; a spur-of the-moment decision. The pair had just returned from a climbing trip in Ecuador and they thought it would be fun to do an easy day trip on Mount St. Helens. Together, the best friends had gone on at least 120 climbs.
YouTube: Mount St. Helens South Rim
“I introduced him to climbing… it was his passion. He just liked the physical aspect of it, the accomplishment, the challenge,” Salkovics said.
Salkovics said he wished he could have somehow saved his friend and wanted people to know he was a good person and a smart climber.
“He is a very giving individual… a true partner.”
Bohlig lived alone in Kelso and had one son who died while serving time in the military years ago, Salkovic said.

http://www.kgw.com/news/Climber-falls-into-Mount-St-Helens-crater-84413927.html
 
SKAMANIA, Wash. – Searchers recovered the body of a climber who tumbled 1,500 feet into the Mount St. Helens crater after a cornice gave way beneath him early Monday afternoon.
<snip>

We were discussing this earlier today at another forum. I almost sent this to you.
 
hey at least those guys in the National Guard will be able to log some much needed hours on their aircraft that cost anywhere from 3 to 10 grand an hour to fly.

:)
 
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