Calling Etoili, Coy, and all other corset making/wearing experts:

[the captians wench]

I'm working on a new corset for myself. It's my first strapless one for me. I've never worn, bought, or made strapless ones for myself because I am busty and I'm always afraid that they are going to flip on me. But I have a new pattern and a real metal busk, so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Here's my question. The pattern has two vertions, one with gusts and one with out. I don't like the look of the gusts, but I'm wondering if it might be best to go with them anyway since I am so busty (full dd cup). I only have enough material to do one or the other in this material, other wize I'd just do both, try them on, and see which I liked best.

So dear corset snobs, which do you sujest?

 

[myinnerslut]

while i know very little about corsets other then they are pretty and sexy, i do want to put in a request for pictures once it has been created.

 

[VelvetDarkness]

while i know very little about corsets other then they are pretty and sexy, i do want to put in a request for pictures once it has been created.

Seconded.

That's it. Apologies but I can't do anything more complicated than mend clothes and sew buttons back on.

Best of luck with it though Wenchie

 

[SweetGigi]

I personally think you should use them. They can only add more support and hold. I like that feeling of constraint and restriction. I like the look too.

 

[the captians wench]

I personally think you should use them. They can only add more support and hold. I like that feeling of constraint and restriction. I like the look too.

see I just don't like the look of the gusts, but the pattern says that with the gusts i can go up to a 4d, where as with out them it goes up to a d cup. Since I'm a dd, and a pretty full one at that, I'm thinking that the gusts might be best fit wize.

I have made a ton of bodices before, and I've made renisaince style corsets for myself, but not this victorian style.

*sigh*

 

[Etoile]

I am going to guess you are talking about gussets? The triangular expander thingies in the upper portion? I would say that if you are going for a sculpted ribcage - that is, if the shape of your pattern calls for one - but you want support for the "girls" then definitely go with the gussets. If the ribcage isn't going to be tightened much, then personally I prefer the "overflowing" pushed-up shelf look. It's weird, I know, but I like it. And for that I would leave the gussets out. However, they will give you a more rounded shape, so if you want that, then leave them in.

 

[the captians wench]

I am going to guess you are talking about gussets? The triangular expander thingies in the upper portion? I would say that if you are going for a sculpted ribcage - that is, if the shape of your pattern calls for one - but you want support for the "girls" then definitely go with the gussets. If the ribcage isn't going to be tightened much, then personally I prefer the "overflowing" pushed-up shelf look. It's weird, I know, but I like it. And for that I would leave the gussets out. However, they will give you a more rounded shape, so if you want that, then leave them in.

I thought they were called gussets, but the pattern calls them gusts

I do like the "overflow" you mention that I get in the ren style corset....hmmmm more to consider, I may have to consult those who view "the girls" in their restrained stat most often *giggles*

but thank you etoile, that helps.

 

[LilyBart]

I am not Etoile, Coy et al...but I sew....

While I have not made a corset...staying far away from boning....but I do sew a lot, including very tailored clothing....

This, it seem to me, calls for the dreaded "toile", that is, make a mock-up or muslin in cheap fabric before you commit to your special fab. Like Etoile, I assume you're talking about the triangular gussets...and for those, I would definitely test in a toile. PM me if you want more references....I am a sewing encyclopedia..... ...and very happy to help a fellow sewist.....

 

[Velvet Bubbles]

I would go for them.

 

[Etoile]

I thought they were called gussets, but the pattern calls them gusts

I do like the "overflow" you mention that I get in the ren style corset....hmmmm more to consider, I may have to consult those who view "the girls" in their restrained stat most often *giggles*

but thank you etoile, that helps.

I think it must be an abbreviation, I've never heard them called gusts!

 

[the captians wench]

While I have not made a corset...staying far away from boning....but I do sew a lot, including very tailored clothing....

This, it seem to me, calls for the dreaded "toile", that is, make a mock-up or muslin in cheap fabric before you commit to your special fab. Like Etoile, I assume you're talking about the triangular gussets...and for those, I would definitely test in a toile. PM me if you want more references....I am a sewing encyclopedia..... ...and very happy to help a fellow sewist.....

I thought about that, but the muslin won't stand like the material I want to use so it won't give me the idea that I want. I know how the two will look comparitively, I've seen enough of these style corstes to know that much, but I've never tried one on. Well I have tried the straight style on (is that edwardian, I'm terrible with anythign after elizibeathen period)

I think I'll play with the pattern pieces a bit, maybe I can work getting both styles cut out.

 

[snowy ciara]

I'm fairly small chested but have been wearing corsets for a long time, for 8-10 hours a day for medical problems. If you're going to be wearing your corset for a long time I highly suggest you put in the gussets. When I wore the more straight line corset or the underbust corset, my chest wall and sometimes my breasts (mostly the muscle underlying the breast) would ache after a few hours. My orthopedic Dr told me it was because your musculature in your diaphragm, chest wall, shoulders and back are used to working together to support your breasts, and when you immobilize just the mid to lower part of your torso (which we had to do because of all the broken bones) then the chest wall and shoulders are forced to take more of the burden than they're used to and they complain bitterly about it. Even wearing a super strong bra with my under-bust to support my itty bitties didn't help much as I got weals where the top of the corset and the band of the bra rubbed and pinched and irritated. So when I needed a new corset (because I didn't need to be quite so tight and because my shape was changing, due to the corsets and the enforced immobility after the accident) I had her put gussets in. And it made a world of difference for me.

Also, my mom was able to make corset covers (I'm sure they have a real name but fashion/costumery isn't my thing so I have no clue what they're really called.) that went over the material and snapped in place along the backbone that covered the gussets nicely (with darts and shaping) so that they weren't that noticeable. Then I could change the look for my mood.

 

[the captians wench]

I'm fairly small chested but have been wearing corsets for a long time, for 8-10 hours a day for medical problems. If you're going to be wearing your corset for a long time I highly suggest you put in the gussets. When I wore the more straight line corset or the underbust corset, my chest wall and sometimes my breasts (mostly the muscle underlying the breast) would ache after a few hours. My orthopedic Dr told me it was because your musculature in your diaphragm, chest wall, shoulders and back are used to working together to support your breasts, and when you immobilize just the mid to lower part of your torso (which we had to do because of all the broken bones) then the chest wall and shoulders are forced to take more of the burden than they're used to and they complain bitterly about it. Even wearing a super strong bra with my under-bust to support my itty bitties didn't help much as I got weals where the top of the corset and the band of the bra rubbed and pinched and irritated. So when I needed a new corset (because I didn't need to be quite so tight and because my shape was changing, due to the corsets and the enforced immobility after the accident) I had her put gussets in. And it made a world of difference for me.

Also, my mom was able to make corset covers (I'm sure they have a real name but fashion/costumery isn't my thing so I have no clue what they're really called.) that went over the material and snapped in place along the backbone that covered the gussets nicely (with darts and shaping) so that they weren't that noticeable. Then I could change the look for my mood.

this is exactly the fashion over function delema I am having!

suport, or the shape I like....

I really need to try to get the pattern laid out so I can do both!

 

[Etoile]

Also, my mom was able to make corset covers (I'm sure they have a real name but fashion/costumery isn't my thing so I have no clue what they're really called.) that went over the material and snapped in place along the backbone that covered the gussets nicely (with darts and shaping) so that they weren't that noticeable. Then I could change the look for my mood.

Actually I believe they ARE called corset covers.

 

[snowy ciara]

this is exactly the fashion over function delema I am having!

suport, or the shape I like....

I really need to try to get the pattern laid out so I can do both!

HEE! I tend to go for comfort, but I never got into the fashion/restraint part of corsetry. Any curiosity I had has been KEEEELLLEEEDDD.

Actually I believe they ARE called corset covers.

*giggling madly* See? This is why I make a terrible girl! I don't know these things, and Google didn't help much so I thought it must be something terribly obscure and complicated.

 

[LilyBart]

this is exactly the fashion over function delema I am having!

suport, or the shape I like....

I really need to try to get the pattern laid out so I can do both!

Sorry...me again, and back to the toile...If, in fact you're going to go to this much effort (and making your own corset is a huge effort), then I'm going to have to nag you into making a muslin. Don't use actual muslin...use cheapo fabric with the same characteristics as your final fabric. Then, you get to play around with the final effect without a huge cash outlay...and, bonus....you can make future corsets using your toile pieces.
This way, you can play around with fashion vs. function...or maybe come up with one version for fashion and one for function.....

 

[the captians wench]

Sorry...me again, and back to the toile...If, in fact you're going to go to this much effort (and making your own corset is a huge effort), then I'm going to have to nag you into making a muslin. Don't use actual muslin...use cheapo fabric with the same characteristics as your final fabric. Then, you get to play around with the final effect without a huge cash outlay...and, bonus....you can make future corsets using your toile pieces.
This way, you can play around with fashion vs. function...or maybe come up with one version for fashion and one for function.....

*giggles* Nag all you like, I'll just have to claim to be a terrible seamstress in that I refuse to make a toile.

It's not that big a deal to me. I make bodices all of the time, and ren style corsets, so this isn't a stretch for me. Yes it is more detailed than my usual "lightly heavy boned", I will be using a lot more boning, and I will be using my first metal busk, but it's not so much different from my usual pieces.

Here's a pic of one of my recient pieces. It was boned on all seams and had 2 bones in the front for the feel of a busk. Of course this is a bodice, not a corset, but like I said, it's not terribly out of my norm.

Maybe I'm being nieve about it, but it just doesn't seem like such a huge undertaking to me.

And if I don't like it, I'll know the first time I try it on, and I'll just put it in the sell pile. *shrug* I love the material, but I won't die with out it.

 

[Noor]

I'm working on a new corset for myself. It's my first strapless one for me. I've never worn, bought, or made strapless ones for myself because I am busty and I'm always afraid that they are going to flip on me. But I have a new pattern and a real metal busk, so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Here's my question. The pattern has two vertions, one with gusts and one with out. I don't like the look of the gusts, but I'm wondering if it might be best to go with them anyway since I am so busty (full dd cup). I only have enough material to do one or the other in this material, other wize I'd just do both, try them on, and see which I liked best.

So dear corset snobs, which do you sujest?

If its the laughing moon pattern do the one with. They are there for fit.

Noor-one of the lit corset making and/or wearing Diva's

 

[Etoile]

BTW, am I the only person who thinks of - well, me - when they see "toile" mentioned?

 

[the captians wench]

BTW, am I the only person who thinks of - well, me - when they see "toile" mentioned?

*giggles* No it was my first thought too.

 

[Noor]

There is an online corset pattern generator which I seen work on small and large breasted women. It really depends on what kind of corset you want.

 

[LilyBart]

BTW, am I the only person who thinks of - well, me - when they see "toile" mentioned?

Well, no....I had a very hard time typing toile without thinking of you.....(but not in that way....)

But that is the correct word....and sounds so much nicer than "muslin."

 

[the captians wench]

I'm putting the bone casing in now and I'm so excited!

this has gone together very smothly. I decided to go with out the gores. And there isn't enough material left to do one with, but I there is enough that I can get some coordinating fabric and do some fancy piecing and do one that highlights the gores.

thanks for the help guys, and as soon as it's done I'll post pics.

 

[coy_one]

Good luck with the boning casings. If you don't have them just right, the effing steel bones get caught. Been there, done that.

If I were here sooner, I would have gone without the gussets. I'm busty, but I guess I like the whole pushed up cleavage deal.

 

[the captians wench]

Good luck with the boning casings. If you don't have them just right, the effing steel bones get caught. Been there, done that.

If I were here sooner, I would have gone without the gussets. I'm busty, but I guess I like the whole pushed up cleavage deal.

I know all about bone casing *giggles* done enough bodices to be familure with that. And yes, they are a bitch at times!



Well as promised, the finished product.