Pick out the right....

[NighttimeFling]

Guitar?

I have always wanted to learn. Now, jobless and out of school, I have the time to devote to learning.

Why guitar? I think they are sexy and I can't afford a violin.

So what do I buy? I need baseline idea so I dont sound like a complete idiot when I walk into the music store.



(If you feel the need to call me names or just be plain mean, keep it to yourself.)

 

[NippleMuncher]

I would recommend sticking to the basics, go with an acoustic guitar, then there is no need for amps, power cords, etc. You'll be able to play it anywhere and it will sound great, well, as good as your current skills allow.

If you go with an electric, then you have a shitty sounding instrument without the amp, and a really LOUD shitty sounding instrument until you learn to play it, let alone learn what kind of amp/guitar qualities constitute an instrument worth playing.

The key here is to keep it simple, you will always be able to upgrade later as you not only learn the instrument, but also learn what you need to improve it (speaking specifically of electrics ).

Good luck, and enjoy. One day I would like to learn the guitar.

 

[unregistered]

 

[GiggLeGasm]

first - decide what kind of music you want to play. that will determine what kind of guitar you want to buy.

let's start there

 

[jehoram]

The only advice I have for you is to take an experienced guitar player with you when you shop. He or she can tell you if the "action" (the height of the strings over the fingerboard) is acceptable. On almost all the guitars I've seen in stores (even some of the more expensive ones), the action is too high. The manufacturers ship them that way because they don't want complaints about the strings buzzing on the frets when the action is too low, so they expect the retailers to adjust the action to suit the playing style of the customer. But a high action makes the guitar more difficult to play -- you have to press down harder on the strings to push them against the fret -- and throws the pitch of the string off because you're stretching it more than you have to. Result: painful fingers, negative feedback, bad sound.

This adjustment can be done by an experienced repair person, but its a PITA job. If you're spending more than a few hundred dollars on a guitar, you should insist that the deal include whatever adjustments you need to make on it, including the action.

 

[pplwatching]

First, always remember that any deal that looks too good to be true probably is. No deal is too good not to sleep on. Take your phone with you and look up each guitar that you are considering by manufacturer (E.g. Yamaha) and model. There's always someone selling one of just about everything on EBay and you can get a reference price. If you are buying at a music store, tell another customer that you're a n00b and ask them what they think of a guitar. Pawn shops and individual sellers are another matter. Garage sales are a fantastic place to find good playable instruments without breaking the budget.

It doesn't sound like you're looking for something expensive, so here's the basics. Once you've visually looked for obvious signs of cracks and blistering, the biggest issues with used guitars are pretty easy to spot for a novice. Look for repairs. These can be hard to spot if you don't know what you're looking for, but basically you're looking for any sign that the instrument was damaged and repaired. Repairs done right are not a bad thing, and can get you a much nicer guitar for less money if you're willing to live with a good repair that's not perfect cosmetically.

Then look down the neck from the end with the tuners. The neck should be straight both left to right and top to bottom, and the strings make a good point of reference. Some minor warping / bowing can be adjusted out with the truss rod, but it's easier to just find one that doesn't need it in the first place. While you are looking down the neck check that the frets are all the same height. Look for high and low frets, and any significant scalloping of the fret board where the strings have worn away at the board.

Once you've determined that the neck is true pick each string on each fret. Each note should sound clear. If it has a buzzing sound, the guitar will need adjustment. Start with each string "open" (not fingered) and then press each string on each fret, one at a time, playing each note. After you've done a few you'll find that this is a pretty quick test. Then pull up a little bit on each string. When you let go, the string should return to it's original pitch. If it doesn't then the tuners are weak and you might find yourself tuning up a lot.

The next problem to look for is the "bridge" (the bit where the strings end farthest from the tuners) pulling away from the body. This can be caused by any number of things including improper storage. There should be no gap between the top of the guitar and the bridge. Take a business card and try to slip it under the bridge where it meets the wood. If you can slip the card under the bridge, there's something wrong with the guitar and you should pass.

Finally, ask a friend if they have a guitar that you can borrow (or keep). I have a couple of guitars that friends gave me when they were moving because they didn't want to mess with them. Lots of people would rather see a guitar go to someone who'll play it than sell it for a few bucks.

Good luck!

 

[Kyle_Rayner]

get a ukalele

 

[NightL]

Finally, ask a friend if they have a guitar that you can borrow (then keep).

...love it. Start of a good muso career

 

[Monazwx]

Thank you for this thread. There are some really great responses in here.

 

[NighttimeFling]

Thanks for the great advice!!
I probably get an acoustic since they have the best and are easier to learn.

 

[Lord Pmann]

I've been playing guitar for more than 20 years and I'm only 30, so I will try to shed some light here. I've owned guitars from $100-$6,000 in price, so I'm familiar with the spectrum available. Take a look at my profile pic and you can see me playing guitar.

An acoustic guitar purchase probably the best way to go. My very first guitar I purchased was a cheap one for like $80 from a pawn shop when I was about 8 years old. I banged around on it for a few months. It was unplayable and really shitty. For Christmas, my parents got me an electric guitar. I learned on an electric from that point on. So, learning on an electric is possible, but I recommend acoustic. To be honest, an acoustic is harder on your hands than an electric, as the strings are heavier.

I recommend the following:

1. Spend about $250-300. There is a HUGE difference in a $300 guitar and a $150 guitar. The difference can be as big as whether it is playable or not. Had I tried to learn on my first $80 guitar, I would have given up.

2. If you know someone who plays guitar, have them help you. Some guitars can look nice but have terrible action (the height of the strings to the neck). Mostly this can be adjusted. But some guitars just plain suck and can't be adjusted.

3. Again, if you know someone who can help you, buy used. You can get a really decent guitar for $300 used. However, you have to have someone to help you sort through the crap. Craigslist is a great resource for this. For the most part, I prefer used instruments. My thought is that any flaws to be had in the instrument will be exposed by the time I buy it.

4. Get a steel string (as opposed to nylon string), unless you just want to learn classical.

5. Never, ever, under any circumstance do the following: play a Nickelback or Fallout Boy song on that guitar. It's not worth it.

6. If you go to a music store, go to a small one first. They will probably be much wiser than the young dipshits that work at Guitar Center. I won't deny Guitar Center's pricing.

7. Also, don't order one online. Play whatever instrument you are purchasing. At the "under $1,000" range, guitars can be inconsistent. You could play one that is fantastic and play the same exact guitar that feels like shit. I would never buy an (acoustic) instrument under about $3k that I have not touched. I've bought several in the $5-6k range that I've never actually played, because I am confident in their consistency.

Lastly, take the time to learn. Playing can be amazing. It can be fun. It can be wonderful. But it takes effort. Learn the music you like.

I'll be glad to provide any other information you may need.

Cheers

 

[Paul_Chance]

Yamaha FG700S folk acoustic or the Hohner HW440 acoustic/electric. They're both reasonably priced guitars, rather forgiving for a learner and they're both good knock around guitars.

Pmann has it right on all accounts. Buy used from a small shop if you can because you will want to build a relationship with your dealer...uh...retailer. Never play Nickleback. Ever.

 

[beingtrue2me]

strings are ok but if you wanna talk drums? I'm your girl. (really)

 

[oggbashan]

When my brother was doing his National Service in the Royal Navy (he's that OLD!), he had two guitars - on the advice of his guitar playing uncle.

He took the cheap one to sea. The salt air, sunshine and the places he played it basically wrecked it.

He kept the expensive secondhand one at our parents house and only played it when he was home and SOBER.

The cheap guitar was named his 'fighting' guitar because he took it along when on shore in the rough parts of ports. On his first few shore visits he was concerned with protecting his guitar in the inevitable drunken brawls with sailors from other ships or other nations. Later, he found that the guitar, in its hard case, was a useful weapon.

The ship's carpenter had to repair the guitar, and case, several times a year.

I inherited the 'fighting' guitar. By then it was unplayable. The neck was twisted, pinned and glued together around the breaks. If I tuned it to a correct pitch the neck would move, lifting the strings way above the frets.

But as a 'fighting' guitar it was great as long as no one tried to play it.

My brother still has and treasures his expensive guitar. It cost a hundred pounds secondhand in 1956 - more than his first car.