small spaces and bedframes

This is me being selfish and curious, I'm moving soon and am looking
to buy or make my own bedframe ... you all know me well enough to know
that I want it to be functional/pervertable as well.

Ideally I'd love a big four post bed, dark wood, stained in reds for
that dark lovely victorian look and have it littered with eye hooks
and be suspension safe.
But my room is again going to be the size of a closet so I have to
work with it.

SO... my compromise ideal:
I want to put two twin mattresses on the frame without me providing a
box spring as well, that I can put on risers (or is tall enough) to
put big storage containers under... so it has to be at least two feet
off the ground. It would be best if the containers are accessable
from all sides of the bed, especially at the foot.

mattresses will of course be covered with a queen eggcrate foamy thing and yummy sheets/blankies/pillows to make it niiiice and comfortable.

The large bed WILL get in the way of my closet no matter where I put
it (yep, room is THAT small) so I'm taking the door off of the closet and
hanging tasteful courtains instead, I can't use the wood from the
door, heh.

I don't have an ebay account, I don't want to spend more then $100-150
either making my own paying (ie for materials and some labor),
buying/thrifting it from somewhere and of course free would be great.
If I could steal the frames from college, that would be peachy
too... without getting fined or found out of course. But that is unlikely.. so I'm scrapping the idea for now.



This is me asking for help:
Good stores/links
best places to find cheap prices in building materials
SIMPLE designs

(ps, I'm googling and have a friend on ebay, ikea's site is down, jcpenny's isn't too bad but still a tiny bit out of reach ... macey's and sears is worthless, bedbathbeyond only has bedding)

AAAAAAAAAAND just incase I've bored you....

This is also me asking you all what you have built or large pieces
that you own ... if you haven't built anything tell us all something
large you have perverted/converted ... and if none of that still
applies, tell us what your big furnature dreams are!!

pictures welcome

How many times do I have to tell you you can just use my bed?

Are you looking at $100-150 for just bed or including mattress? That changes a lot. You can totally find a decent bed (including bedboard) at IKEA for that price. My roommate and I both bought a full-size bed frame from there, and we paid $200 each. And both of ours were their expensive ones. About box springs, you don't need them. Me, my friends and family are doing fine in a bed with just mattress without any box spring. (Box spring is very american thing BTW.)

I would look at Craigslist and also if you have access, look at ads around local college.

Some of my friends had the tinest room in dorm so they used cinder blocks to lift their bed up so they can put storage boxes under the bed. Or you can buy flat bed frames that have built-in storage boxes.

I'm a huge fan of http://www.craigslist.com/ and just found their FREE section the other day. If you're unfamiliar with the site, go to that link, find the closest city(ies) to you on the right, then look for Free under the For Sale section in the middle. There's usually a multitude of great deals in the furniture and every other section as well. I think you said you're really pressed for time, but there's also a barter section, so you may be able to work something out there.

EDIT: A lot of large companies also have internal classifieds, so if you know people who work at those in your area, ask them to find out. I find free and ultra-cheap stuff on Microsoft and Boeing all the time...people move or get new stuff, and would rather not deal with the hassle of trying to sell it. You might also search for "virtual" garage sales in your area on CL and other sites.

I can't give you much as far as kinkifying the bed (we just have simple restraints tied around the "feet" of our simple frame for now, and plan to do the eyebolt thing). I've found quite a few sites like http://www.saroftreve.com/workshop/ with plans for BDSM furniture. Some of these should yield plans or solid ideas you can modify to suit your taste, and I bet a lot of the authors would be happy to entertain your questions as well. I saw the Bonk'er Extreme reviewed on another site recently, and while I know it's too expensive and impractical, I'm throwing it up because it may give you another idea.

I'll come back if I think of or find anything else for ya.

BlueSugar said:

or make my own bedframe

Click to expand...

How are your woodworking skills?

You need four 4x4 uprights, two long and two short 4x6 or 4x8 side-rails two long and two short 2x2 for "cleats" to support the mattress base and a sheet of 5/8 or 3/4" plywood for the mattress base.

Use Lap joints or Mortice-and-tenon joints to attach the side/end rails to the uprights and use screws to atach the cleats to the insides of the siderails and attach the plywood to the cleats.

If the lap-joints are fit tightly enough, you shouldn't need bracing but you can put cross bracing above or below the bed level by lapping diagonal 1x4 or 2x4 pieces on the ends and one side.

You can probably find detail plans on the web for a bed like I described -- which is basically a bunk-bed design with ony one oversized bunk.

I have to give craigslist a try, theres some other freecycle type page I've been checking out... but its for the mattress/boxspring, which I don't need... I'm looking for a frame to either buy or make.

after alot of searching around tonight I think building will be smarter. My skills suck, but maybe if I buy and someone else helps me out... it'll work, money is my main issue.
Weird Harold, you've hit the nail on the head pretty much... but to make one big enough for a queen, what do you think the boards and metal will run me, say, from a standard Home Depot (just to get a 'commercial' price to gague from) ?
your design sounds great too, but I think just for the added support I might double the corner 4x4s so that a corner is actually made and it is more steady on its feet.


as far as kinkafying goes, I'm preetty much set between real chain, leather, a good amount of eye hooks and such ... so because of my 'activities' and lifestyle, I'd have to reinforce the bed anyway whether I/someone else makes everything good and tight or not.

I would go for a closet with sliding doors. Here in NL you can buy so called Louvre style doors from almost every DIY store. They are not expensive, but people will also sell them second hand. Thet can easily been made into sliding doors using a rail-system and I like the 'look'. You were talking four poster bed so I was thinking colonial style a bit...

There is a closet from IKEA that is called Vestby that we have (two pieces). It is VERY cheap and still stylish and since the room is small already it should give some idea of space being transparent and light. The Vestby's are not heavy duty material but I found that when you mount them to the walls, like we did, they can stand quite a bit.

See pictures.

Also have a look at this: http://www.woodworking.com/wwtimes_4poster.cfm

BlueSugar said:

Weird Harold, you've hit the nail on the head pretty much... but to make one big enough for a queen, what do you think the boards and metal will run me, say, from a standard Home Depot (just to get a 'commercial' price to gague from) ?
your design sounds great too, but I think just for the added support I might double the corner 4x4s so that a corner is actually made and it is more steady on its feet.

Click to expand...

I haven't actually shopped for lumber in a couple of years and the kind of wood you choose will make a big difference in price. Just a very rough guess, you could build it of good quality Pine or Douglas Fir for around $75 including screws.

I would NOT double up on the 4x4's; a) they're going to be the most expensive parts and B) I specified 4x4 posts because you want a bed strong enough to "suspend" someone. If you were just going to sleep on the bed, 2x4 or 2x6 uprights would be more than strong enough.

You can make the bed I described without using fancy lap-joints, but it wouldn't be as strong and would definitely require some cross-bracing.

What kind of woodworking tools do you have?

I did a google search for "Platform Bed Plan" and turned up some platfrom and loft bed plans that should give you some ideas:

http://www.plansnow.com/bedroom.html

http://www.plansnow.com/dn1116.html

This exploded view of a platform bed is roughly what I was trying to describe except without the headboard and with corner posts that rise above the mattress
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/plansnow/dn1116-closer2.gif

http://www.hardwoodartisans.com/brloft_3.html

This "Tester Bed" is close to what I pictured, except the corner posts aren't as thin or elegant.
http://www.hardwoodartisans.com/brbeds_9.html (tester)

Timber Nest has some good designs that would be fairly easy to adapt. The second link has the dimensions you need for a queen size bed.
http://www.timbernest.com/
http://www.timbernest.com/photo_page.cfm?product_id=21

I got 2.7 million hits for "platform bed plan" and these are just a sampling from the first page.

It looks like you want a cross between "Tester," "Platform," and "Loft" style.

that I can put on risers (or is tall enough) to
put big storage containers under... so it has to be at least two feet
off the ground.

Click to expand...

Many of the Platform designs are like Waterbed designs and have drawers built into the base. What kind of storage containers do you have in mind for under the bed? What I described intially is just the bare basics of a rustic, raised four-poster platform bed. For you stated need for "suspension safe" I'd add the top frame of a tester style -- and additional two long and two short 2x2 pieces.

You might inquire at your local Home Depot or Lowes about having them cut the pieces to length and cut the lap joints for you.

The room I'm moving into is tiny, if I put a twin bed anywhere but length wise on the wall opposite the closet ... or if I put the bed at the wall next to the closet it will be in the way of the closet.
I over the years of college acquired two twin mattresses and have the beds set up as a queen, my current set up I can't take the bedframes, so I'm stuck buying or making my own.

The closet itself is in the wall, unfortunately the space for it takes up space in my room instead of the room next to it and the door swings out, since I have the queen and I'm stubbornly not taking it down, I'm taking the door off, hanging curtain rod and putting something nice over it (I already own.)
With the bed in the room, there will be maybe enough space for someone to be just next to the bed to weasel their way to the closet so its accessable but interesting.

As for storage space under the bed... ideally, I would like a drawer type of system for storage that runs at least one of the lengths of the bed, just a shelving system mostly that is partially hidden by another tasteful curtain.
But what will likely happen is a double rod, one to hang clothing on, and the other to cover the space with another tasteful curtain.

I'm debating putting another flat piece under the bed and making something of a make shift desk area to the side of the storage space section but that depends on where the electrical outlits are if they are in the back of the room I'd do it... but if they're in the front of the room I'd use the under the bed storage space to block off the window (it faces a brick wall that is a foot away so I really don't care...heh) and build the desk as a L shape next to the "closet" that would be by my head.

I think with the loft system in place there is enough room for the door to the room to swing open (I'd love to move the door so it swings out instead of in though) and a person to take 2-3 steps into the room before confronted with the loft structure (...toldya it was tiny )
So it would be walk into room straight on look stright ahead = storage space under bed. Look left under bed = desk type area. Right of bed = existing closet.

I've been looking up 'loft beds' and 'loft plans' and loft loft loft, I never thought to put in platform or any other names for such a bed because I didn't know there were so many sheesh, what a project this is turning out to be.

As for doubling up on the 4x4s, the weight of the beds and the weight of one or two people sleeping on it (extra 150-400lbs) and well, lets the ware sex can put on the bed... loft and bunk beds have always made me very nervous ... I'm giving this project an under $200 limit, I'd like to make it as sturdy as I can for it has to be functional and lasting.

I personally have 0 wood working tools and had to look up the joints you had mentioned in a previous post and was baffled on how do I do that myself. So if I could get exact measurements of the beams I'd possibly ask if home depot could cut them for me so all i have to do is number and put it together then find some type of woodglue and hardware (...and tools) to make sure everything stays together. I'm currently also enlisting male friends that potentially have skills and tools ... so as long as I find a plan, price properly, buy and bring it back to town, I'll help all I can - but mostly they'd put it together for me

(I may be dreaming here, us lady friends might put it together bc getting them to do anything is like pulling teeth... but... uh... its nice to dream no?)


As for ikea and home depot ... their stupid websites were down last night ... yah, ya heard me DOWN... lol... I was trying to be a good little shopper and find things that are not only nice to look at, but sturdy as well.

(THANK YOU FOR ALL OF THIS SO FAR... I figured this wasn't as easy as some people make it look...)

IKEA website is back up!

What about something like this:

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stor...&parentCats=15558*15617*15619&productId=50797

It has desk area below bed -so it saves space. Or you can store other things there using boxes or organizers. I believe IKEA has much more instores so I'd say make a trip.

I say if you find what you like at IKEA, just get that because if you decide to make your own bed, that's a lot of work.

At the risk of being an egregious smartass, I'm feeling an uncontrollable urge to point out that there are "nine and ninety ways to construct a tribal lay."

(Feeling much better now)

Seriously, three suggestions:

Building your own will almost certainly produce a higher quality, better looking, and much less expensive bed than you'll get from a store. Unlike many kinds of furniture, you won't need master-cabinetmaker skills to produce a first-class bed. There are dozens of good plans posted online--and the free ones are every bit as good as the ones that demand you send $19.99 to PO Box 38 in Three Holer, Utah.

One good way to cut the high cost of hardwood 4x4s is to ask for "truck stakes" instead of 4x4s. (Truck stakes are the 4x4 or 6x6 posts that keep cargo from falling off otherwise flatbedded trucks.) They're invariably made from strong, high grade oak but--for some unfathomable reason--they sell for half the price of identical 4x4 oak sold as dimensional lumber.

As for the underbed storage, you might want to consider mounting the boxes, baskets, or whatever on ball casters. They make it much quicker and easier to load or unload the contents.

BlueSugar said:

As for doubling up on the 4x4s, the weight of the beds and the weight of one or two people sleeping on it (extra 150-400lbs) and well, lets the wear sex can put on the bed... loft and bunk beds have always made me very nervous ... I'm giving this project an under $200 limit, I'd like to make it as sturdy as I can for it has to be functional and lasting.

Click to expand...

4x4 or 4x6 posts are pretty much the standard for deck supports -- one every 8 -10 feet for a deck that will support around 3,000 pounds. Using 4x4's is overkill for a 4'x 6' platform -- with that kind of load capacity, you could park a pickup truck on the bed with no problem (except for making it fit in that small a space.) The Loft beds I linked are made with 2x4 or 2x6 supports.

I think with the loft system in place there is enough room for the door to the room to swing open (I'd love to move the door so it swings out instead of in though) and a person to take 2-3 steps into the room before confronted with the loft structure (...toldya it was tiny )

Click to expand...

Just how big is this room exactly? Especially how high is the ceiling?

I don't think you really want a true Loft bed -- especially if they make you nervous. What you want is bed that is about the height of a desk or table to the top of the mattress -- 29 or 30 inches.

Like this one with the mattress platform mounted about halfway down the uprights instead of at the top (and without the safety rails and ladder being required.)

http://www.timbernest.com/Productimages/TN105Qw_dimensionstext.gif

As shown, that bed is just over six feet tall and the bottom of the mattress is right at five feet off the floor -- a very good design for freeing up floor space, but a damn poor design for anything but sleeping.

Just a random thought:

If you can find eight matching nightstands or end tables -- roughly 18 inches tall, by 22 inches square -- they would form a perfect base (with storage space) for a plywood sheet cut to the size of a Queen mattress. Add some edge trim around the plywood to hide the ugly, rough edges and you've got a quick, easy, sturdy, queen size platform bed.

It should be possible to find eight roughly similar nightstands at thrift stores for very little cash. Four 22 inch nightstands are a bit longer than a queen mattress (88" to the mattress' 80") but the extra 8" is just about right for a salvaged waterbed stye bookcase headboard.

That approach would drastically reduce the woodworking skills required. It would waste some of the potential underbed storage space, and doesn't meet the "suspension safe" requirement, but it is a cheap, simple to build solution that is strong enough to put a waterbed frame on instead of a platform.

We've guessimated that the ceiling is 8-9 feet
so I don't want to build higher then 4-5 feet or so

as for the rest of the dimensions I was in there for the first time really last night and i took a few steps around the room... from the door to the back of the room I want to say it is 16 heel toe my steps (i wear a size 6) so that is abooout 8-9 feet long and width is about the same... so I think I have an 8x8x8 room... I'll come back tonight with better measurements.
Alls I know is that with a full mattress in the room, it'll be in the way of the closet with maybe a foot of space on one side, and about 2-3 feet space in front of the bed ...just enough for a dresser on one side of the room and a small desk behind the door.
So.. if I raise the bed, make it a closety thing with possible desk space under it... it would help me GREATLY.

I thought of just lifting the bed to desk height just for storage purposes... but if I can free up space AND have storage, that would be ideal. But funds are really my limit other then getting someone/tools to help lol.

I know nothing about what can support what, as you can see, the height doesn't make me nervous, its that its a big object behind held up by four posts and some support, it makes me feel that the mattress will fall through the bottom and it would be loud, broken, and embarrassing lol... but I trust the info given to me and I know deep down that houses and decks are made of these materials... I just have little faith in stuff I make myself ::laughs::

I'm starting to call around to local places that have lumber to start pricing, i'm going to ask if they can put in the joints (something in me says they wont) so.. what are the metal bits I need to joint everything together that'll be strong strong and all that jazz?
::goes searching through plans the ever wise HT has supplied me with::

CopyCarver said:

At the risk of being an egregious smartass, I'm feeling an uncontrollable urge to point out that there are "nine and ninety ways to construct a tribal lay."

(Feeling much better now)

Click to expand...

be an egregious smarass all you'd like, its what Lit is for, just make sure you're helpful in the end!

One good way to cut the high cost of hardwood 4x4s is to ask for "truck stakes" instead of 4x4s. (Truck stakes are the 4x4 or 6x6 posts that keep cargo from falling off otherwise flatbedded trucks.) They're invariably made from strong, high grade oak but--for some unfathomable reason--they sell for half the price of identical 4x4 oak sold as dimensional lumber.

Click to expand...

like so
truck stakes you say? half the price you say?
thank you veeerry much for that piece of info, I greatly apperciate it.

now... hopefully if they say they can't make the joints for me, the power of being a cute undergrad will help me.

BlueSugar said:

We've guessimated that the ceiling is 8-9 feet
so I don't want to build higher then 4-5 feet or so

... so I think I have an 8x8x8 room... I'll come back tonight with better measurements.
...
So.. if I raise the bed, make it a closety thing with possible desk space under it... it would help me GREATLY.

I thought of just lifting the bed to desk height just for storage purposes... but if I can free up space AND have storage, that would be ideal. But funds are really my limit other then getting someone/tools to help lol.

Click to expand...

Have you considered a Futon -- folds to a couch or down to a full size bed. One would be in your price range and would make getting around in the room easier.

If the top of your bed is at five feet, you'll have three feet of headroom -- not quite enough to sit up in bed and just about anything except missionary is going to be dificult; you'll have about as much room for sex as the back seat of a 64 Oldmobile.

On the othr side of things, a five foot sleeping height will give you only about 4 to 4.5 feet of vertical space for a desk under a loft bed -- for reference, the top of my monitor is almost exactly four feet from the floor on standard height computer desk.

so.. what are the metal bits I need to joint everything together that'll be strong strong and all that jazz?

Click to expand...

If you can get the joints cut, you can assemble it with nothing but wood-screws -- the size of screws you'll need depend on the way they cut the joints.

If you can't get the joints cut, you'll need to use lag bolts or carriage bolts for the joints -- without the inset lap-joints the bolt will be carrying the weight. You'll need a drill to use carriage bolts. Two or four 1/4" x 3" lag bolts for each joint for the eight joints.

For the cleats, the plywood base and any cross bracing, you'll just need wood screws -- one for every six inches or so. If you use 2x2 cleats you'll need 2.5" or 2.75" inch screws. (preferably #2 Phillips head) You'll need 1.25" to 1.5" screws to attach the 5/8" plywood to the cleats.

You'll need a screwdriver to fit the screws and a wrench to fit the lag bolts if you use them. If you can't get the pieces pre-cut you'll need a handsaw.

To cut the joints yourself, you'll need to add a hammer and wood chisel to your tool kit. A "combination square" would be useful, but isn't absolutely necessary -- a legal tablet has square corners and can be used to make sure your cuts are square.

Does your college have a woodworking class? Perhaps the teacher or a woodworking student could help with your project?

PS: re: "Metal Bits" to be absolutely precise, you don't need any "metal bits" -- with modern glues, "dowel pins," and slight change in the way the joints are cut, you could make it stronger than if you use metal fasteners. But that's way above your skill level -- not particularly difficult, just very precise work.

Weird Harold said:

Have you considered a Futon -- folds to a couch or down to a full size bed. One would be in your price range and would make getting around in the room easier.

If the top of your bed is at five feet, you'll have three feet of headroom -- not quite enough to sit up in bed and just about anything except missionary is going to be dificult; you'll have about as much room for sex as the back seat of a 64 Oldmobile.

Click to expand...

I've had sex in manya car... I have my sights on a mini next...

On the othr side of things, a five foot sleeping height will give you only about 4 to 4.5 feet of vertical space for a desk under a loft bed -- for reference, the top of my monitor is almost exactly four feet from the floor on standard height computer desk.

Click to expand...

futon a no go, I personally hate them hardcore, this whole mess started because I'm stubborn and want to keep my full bed AND still have storage w/o living in a closet.
I've been thinking of how tall it is and about measurements all day, I never got back over into the apartment I will tomorrow to get more concrete measurements.
Sleep and have room under it to store and live a little. Or give the extra bit of head room for sex.
know what would be REALLY COOL... if the bed was on a pully system of hardcore chain and I could raise that extra foot or so it to live and lower it that extra foot or so to "sleep." ....

If you can get the joints cut, you can assemble it with nothing but wood-screws -- the size of screws you'll need depend on the way they cut the joints.

If you can't get the joints cut, you'll need to use lag bolts or carriage bolts for the joints -- without the inset lap-joints the bolt will be carrying the weight. You'll need a drill to use carriage bolts. Two or four 1/4" x 3" lag bolts for each joint for the eight joints.

For the cleats, the plywood base and any cross bracing, you'll just need wood screws -- one for every six inches or so. If you use 2x2 cleats you'll need 2.5" or 2.75" inch screws. (preferably #2 Phillips head) You'll need 1.25" to 1.5" screws to attach the 5/8" plywood to the cleats.

You'll need a screwdriver to fit the screws and a wrench to fit the lag bolts if you use them. If you can't get the pieces pre-cut you'll need a handsaw.

To cut the joints yourself, you'll need to add a hammer and wood chisel to your tool kit. A "combination square" would be useful, but isn't absolutely necessary -- a legal tablet has square corners and can be used to make sure your cuts are square.

Does your college have a woodworking class? Perhaps the teacher or a woodworking student could help with your project?

Click to expand...

nope, no shop class, but we do have a theater and recreation majors who like to build things ...

PS: re: "Metal Bits" to be absolutely precise, you don't need any "metal bits" -- with modern glues, "dowel pins," and slight change in the way the joints are cut, you could make it stronger than if you use metal fasteners. But that's way above your skill level -- not particularly difficult, just very precise work.

Click to expand...

psh, well hopefully they'll cut the joints for me, if not I have to use lag bolts, wood screws and all that fun metal bits stuff... which... seems likely if I don't go to homedepot or lowes... but if making the cuts is cheaper then buying the metal... then I'm all good to go!


... I was just as I was typing this informed that a friend of mine is getting rid of his full bedframe ... I'm SO going scrap parts if I can and add them to this wonderful creation of woody loftness...


I've been so unbelieveably consumed by this project, I really really can't wait, the last thing I "built" myself (or with the aid of an adult/teacher) that wasn't electronic/web or scrap book related - was a letter holder in metal's class 11 years ago...lol.

BlueSugar said:

know what would be REALLY COOL... if the bed was on a pully system of hardcore chain and I could raise that extra foot or so it to live and lower it that extra foot or so to "sleep." ....

Click to expand...

Actually, I've seen beds that lift out of the way like an elevator, but they were made of metal tubing and even home-made from scraps would probably be over your budget.

BlueSugar said:

nope, no shop class, but we do have a theater and recreation majors who like to build things ...

Click to expand...

Those might be places you can get some skilled help, then, or at least borrow some tools.

BlueSugar said:

psh, well hopefully they'll cut the joints for me, if not I have to use lag bolts, wood screws and all that fun metal bits stuff... which... seems likely if I don't go to homedepot or lowes... but if making the cuts is cheaper then buying the metal... then I'm all good to go!

Click to expand...

Getting lap joints cut shouldn't be too difficult to arrange -- but, the kind of pegged dovetail joints or Mortice and tenon joints that will let you do without screws is "skilled joinery" and will be harder to find without wrecking your budget.

BlueSugar said:

a friend of mine is getting rid of his full bedframe ... I'm SO going scrap parts if I can and add them to this wonderful creation of woody loftness...

Click to expand...

I'm not sure that anything from a standard bed-frame will work. You can probably use the angle-iron frame in place of the cleats for the Plywood, but I think it will actually be more difficult to attach and less durable than using all wood.

My scanner is inoperative, but I'll see if I can use my digital camera to show you a drawing of what I'm thinking of.

Weird Harold said:

Actually, I've seen beds that lift out of the way like an elevator, but they were made of metal tubing and even home-made from scraps would probably be over your budget.

Click to expand...

yeah.. i was just dreaming again *sigh*

Those might be places you can get some skilled help, then, or at least borrow some tools.

Click to expand...

That is my hope of hopes... aside from having the wood cut and jointed as suggested so strongly.

Getting lap joints cut shouldn't be too difficult to arrange -- but, the kind of pegged dovetail joints or Mortice and tenon joints that will let you do without screws is "skilled joinery" and will be harder to find without wrecking your budget.

Click to expand...

I hope I hope I can manage this, the metal bits if/when I have to take the bed apart stare to tear at the wood.

I'm not sure that anything from a standard bed-frame will work. You can probably use the angle-iron frame in place of the cleats for the Plywood, but I think it will actually be more difficult to attach and less durable than using all wood.

Click to expand...

I was thinking of maybe taking the head board, or just some of the bars
*evil smile*
or even help with the making of the desk, the makeshift closet or courtain rods.
He said there are many parts and I have to put them all together, so seeing it taken apart will help me see what scraps I can use later.

My scanner is inoperative, but I'll see if I can use my digital camera to show you a drawing of what I'm thinking of.

Click to expand...

sounds like a plan, I have a really good picture of what you are describing in my head from all the bits and pieces shown in pictures in the thread.

BlueSugar said:

sounds like a plan, I have a really good picture of what you are describing in my head from all the bits and pieces shown in pictures in the thread.

Click to expand...

This isn't a very good drawing or picture, but It's a start:

It looks like I need a new mouse too, because it's not letting me point accurately enough to adjust image to make it more comprehensible.

The lines of the mall sketch in the center of the complete bed didn't turn out very well but it shows just the basic proportions with 60" uprights and the top of the bedframe at 29" to give you 23 inchs of clearance underneath for storage containers and 31 inches of upright to attach restraints to.

The drawing on the left is a perspective view of the inside of a corner joint and the one on the right is the outside of a corner joint. They're shown as full-lap joints with only the upright notched. Half-lap joints would work also but are harder to cut.

Weird Harold said:

This isn't a very good drawing or picture, but It's a start:

It looks like I need a new mouse too, because it's not letting me point accurately enough to adjust image to make it more comprehensible.

The lines of the mall sketch in the center of the complete bed didn't turn out very well but it shows just the basic proportions with 60" uprights and the top of the bedframe at 29" to give you 23 inchs of clearance underneath for storage containers and 31 inches of upright to attach restraints to.

The drawing on the left is a perspective view of the inside of a corner joint and the one on the right is the outside of a corner joint. They're shown as full-lap joints with only the upright notched. Half-lap joints would work also but are harder to cut.

Click to expand...

I can barely see it, it is very blury, but what I can see looks good I do understand the concept. I need measurements, exact number of beams, and plan b adjustments to size if i can't get it jointed .. so.. so far so good

BlueSugar said:

I can barely see it, it is very blury, but what I can see looks good I do understand the concept. I need measurements, exact number of beams, and plan b adjustments to size if i can't get it jointed .. so.. so far so good

Click to expand...

My camera isn't very good at closeups.

Exact measurements are difficult without knowing what kind materials you're going to use. A 4x4 isn't exactly four inches by four inches unless you're dealing with "rough-cut" lumber.

You need to decide whether to use 2x4, 2x6 or 2x8 for the side rails, and that largely depends on how thich the mattresses are and how much of a lip you want the rails to have to keep the mattress from sliding off the bed.

In very general terms, you need two 2x6 side rails that are 84 to 86 inches long -- the necessary 80 1/2 inside measurement plus the thickness of the two end rails. you'll also need two 2x2 or 1x2 cleats for the side rails that are 81 to 82 inchs to fit inside the corner posts.

You'll need two 2x6 end rails that are 65 or 66 inches long and two cleats for them that are 60 to 62 inches long.

You'll need four 4x4 corner posts that are at least 29 inches long plus however tall you want the "posts" of your "four-poster"

You'll need two sheets of plywood because a single sheet isn't wide enough and you'll need to cut two pieces 61 or 62 inches by 40 to 41 inches to support your 60x80 inch mattress(es).

You'll need a box of 3 inch woodscrews and a box of 1 1/2 inch wood screws.

You'll need a screwdriver to fit the screws, a hammer, a saw and a tape measure. A combination square, a drill (with bits to drill pilot holes for the screws) and a chisel would be useful but can be worked around.

For me, this would be a cut-to-fit project that was dependent on the exact dimensions of the mattresses I was building the frame for, so I'd buy all of the materials a bit oversized exept for having the the joints cut in the corner posts -- even them I'd plan for a half inch of wastage to allow for leveling the bed to fit a specific spot in a specific room.

Weird Harold said:

My camera isn't very good at closeups.

Exact measurements are difficult without knowing what kind materials you're going to use. A 4x4 isn't exactly four inches by four inches unless you're dealing with "rough-cut" lumber.

You need to decide whether to use 2x4, 2x6 or 2x8 for the side rails, and that largely depends on how thich the mattresses are and how much of a lip you want the rails to have to keep the mattress from sliding off the bed.

In very general terms, you need two 2x6 side rails that are 84 to 86 inches long -- the necessary 80 1/2 inside measurement plus the thickness of the two end rails. you'll also need two 2x2 or 1x2 cleats for the side rails that are 81 to 82 inchs to fit inside the corner posts.

You'll need two 2x6 end rails that are 65 or 66 inches long and two cleats for them that are 60 to 62 inches long.

You'll need four 4x4 corner posts that are at least 29 inches long plus however tall you want the "posts" of your "four-poster"

You'll need two sheets of plywood because a single sheet isn't wide enough and you'll need to cut two pieces 61 or 62 inches by 40 to 41 inches to support your 60x80 inch mattress(es).

You'll need a box of 3 inch woodscrews and a box of 1 1/2 inch wood screws.

You'll need a screwdriver to fit the screws, a hammer, a saw and a tape measure. A combination square, a drill (with bits to drill pilot holes for the screws) and a chisel would be useful but can be worked around.

For me, this would be a cut-to-fit project that was dependent on the exact dimensions of the mattresses I was building the frame for, so I'd buy all of the materials a bit oversized exept for having the the joints cut in the corner posts -- even them I'd plan for a half inch of wastage to allow for leveling the bed to fit a specific spot in a specific room.

Click to expand...

sheesh this is alot of stuff to get right. I really really hope I get someone to help me that has a bit of know how... and tools.
Maybe, since I wont build I think for another couple months *have to save up the money* I can get my brother to come up... but.. I'm pretty sure he knows jack about building... even though he has helped my grandfather build several decks over the years.. but.. then again.. laying flat is different from building i guess..

soon i'll have the exact measurements, and then we can finalize the wood measurements. I really do appreciate this help, it really means alot to me WH.

BlueSugar said:

I can get my brother to come up... but.. I'm pretty sure he knows jack about building... even though he has helped my grandfather build several decks over the years.. but.. then again.. laying flat is different from building i guess..

Click to expand...

The skills used in building a deck are just what you need for this project -- After all, a platform bed is just a deck to put a mattress on.

In fact, my basic design concept is quite literally drawn from watching "How To" shows like Hometime, This Old House, and New Yankee Workshop and how Decks, Stairs, and Lofts are put together.

The only difference, really, is that the tolerances in the joinery has to be a bit better for a bed than for a deck, but not a great deal better. Your brother sounds like a good choice for help.