leather cuff question

I have a pair of heavy leather cuffs that are suade lined. The suaed is purple. Recently I've been having a problem with the suade bleeding and leaving my wrists purple after play. I didn't have this problem until one session when I sweated very heavily while wearing them, and I've had them for 2 years now.

Does any one know how to keep the cuffs from bleeding?

Can the lining be removed and replaced?

I love my leather wrist and ankle restraints. The leather is really soft, so no lining needed.

Color bleed in vintage textiles is dealt with by diong a soak in plain white vinegar, but I don't know how that would react to the leather...

CutieMouse said:

Color bleed in vintage textiles is dealt with by diong a soak in plain white vinegar, but I don't know how that would react to the leather...

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Resident horse geek says:

Vinegar will strip oils from leather. Horse people use a vinegar/water soak on tack that's been over-oiled. It doesn't really harm it, though, unless you leave the leather there for a REALLY LONG TIME. I think it would be ok to soak your cuffs in a vinegar solution to stop the fabric bleeding, wenchie. The leather may dry out a little, in which case, you'd want to re-oil it with PURE neatsfoot oil (not the compound--it can rot leather and stitching) or something similar. Just don't use too much oil, or it'll rub off, too, and you'll be right back where you started from.

//hijack//

mm...pickled leather...

//endhijack//

BiBunny said:

Resident horse geek says:

Vinegar will strip oils from leather. Horse people use a vinegar/water soak on tack that's been over-oiled. It doesn't really harm it, though, unless you leave the leather there for a REALLY LONG TIME. I think it would be ok to soak your cuffs in a vinegar solution to stop the fabric bleeding, wenchie. The leather may dry out a little, in which case, you'd want to re-oil it with PURE neatsfoot oil (not the compound--it can rot leather and stitching) or something similar. Just don't use too much oil, or it'll rub off, too, and you'll be right back where you started from.

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i know it wasn't my question originally, but i'm still happy to store this information away.

ty bunny = )

Quite welcome. I always knew it'd come in handy to be a kinky horsey chick.

BiBunny said:

Resident horse geek says:

Vinegar will strip oils from leather. Horse people use a vinegar/water soak on tack that's been over-oiled. It doesn't really harm it, though, unless you leave the leather there for a REALLY LONG TIME. I think it would be ok to soak your cuffs in a vinegar solution to stop the fabric bleeding, wenchie. The leather may dry out a little, in which case, you'd want to re-oil it with PURE neatsfoot oil (not the compound--it can rot leather and stitching) or something similar. Just don't use too much oil, or it'll rub off, too, and you'll be right back where you started from.

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thanks bunny, but now is time for my dark confession....I've never oiled any of my leather *blush* some one has always done it for me, but the regular leather taker-care-of-er has vanished from my life. so pretend I'm really dumb about these things and explain the whole oiling thing and where I can buy the oil, if you would be so kind dear.

Leather care products are pretty easy to come by. Tack shops, motorcycle dealers, Big R, on line, etc.

Personally I would suggest hot water rinses, gradually lowering the temperature , and rubbing the fabric to squeeze the dye out (wear some latex or rubber kitchen gloves) until you don't see any dye running. The water shouldn't bother the leather, especially if you oil it afterwards.

If the bleeding persists, wrap an ace bandage around your wrists until it stops.

First..apologies for being long winded.

Water, vinegar , etc will cause problems with the leather.... None of which aren't fixable, but may be a pain in the ass...*grin* Depending on just how long you want to spend working on it...

Most all those problems come down to their removing the oils from the leather itself.

Okee... Leather {especially seude BLECH!} "bleeds" because your sweat is acting as a solvent. Which causes the dyes to leach out. In this case, onto your skin. Sweat can "bleach" leather and cloth in prolonged exposure.

Human sweat is one of the more noxious substances to deal with in this regard, because it contains a variety of salts, minerals, etc... All of which are hard on the leather. After all, human sweat can, and will, etch steel, causing corrosion to start at the location of a fingerprint.
Also, being wet, with sweat or other liquids, greatly increases your leathers ability to stretch. From which it does not recover.

On the up side... Leather maintenance is pretty easy and can be done while watching TV .. And all of the compounds are water soluble.

If you wash leather, {if you absolutely have to} do it by hand, in water that is room temp.. Hot water is bad for the leather, and cold doesn't work as well. Allow it to "air dry". Which means NO HEAT..

There are about a bazillion products that work for smooth surface leather.. I have had very good luck with the ubiquitous "Camp Dry", it does the trick quite well. *grin* And acts as a "waterproofing" agent. I have also used "Mink oil" and the old standby "saddle soap"..

Suede is somewhat more problematic {hence the "Blech"}mainly because it has "nap". But you can find suede care products at any shoe store...
Hmmm.... You can tell the clerk you are looking for something for your hiking boots if you are feeling bashful. Look for something that waterproofs. If you can keep the sweat from soaking in to the leather then it won't weaken the bonds of the dye.
Tip: Try whatever you are going to use on the inside of your elbow for a while first...Allergic reactions in the midst of scene suck.
Tip2: If the leather has gotten dry {hard} you can try a shot of silicone... Auto parts stores sell a spray can of %100 pure silicone.. It works really well.
But it will tend to cause the nap to "lay" on suede {the leather will try and get smooth}, a suede brush can help with this...

Most all of my leather items last practicly forever, so it must be working well..
And I HAVE found that having the "pyl" do the leather maintenance can sometimes introduce a somewhat salutory mental state.. *grin*

P.S. Most of that suede they use is "garment leather"... I think I have oh, about ten pounds of the stuff laying about...Most of it leftovers from assorted projects.. A lot of it will NEVER stop bleeding.. *grin* Welcome to why those jackets say "Dry Clean Only".

I've gone to Velcro. It's quick and sturdy and wrapped around a couple of times and your sub isn't going anywhere. Sure, leather has a great smell and feel and the idea that you're using leather on a human doea have it's "taiming the animal" kink about it, but my leather shackles have taken a back seat to Velco.

There's black and white at Home Depot. And, it comes in long rolls, 2 inches wide. Take the tape off of the two parts and stick them back to back. Keep them as straight as you can, to keep from exposing the sticky part so it will collect crap you don't want collected. You can cut into various lengths with sissors, after the two parts are together or before, for the best result.

One problem with Velcro is it tends to stick to fabrics. And, in time it can also attract carpet fibers, if you play on a carpet. Just be aware of where you are using it, and it will last quite a while.

I keep mine rolled up on itself, when not in use. Sometimes I put the rolls in plastic bags to keep it from sticking to other things. I have various lengths, for wrists, ankles and for attaching same to other objects like table legs, bondage benches and other kinky things.

There is a soft side and a rough side. I always put the soft side against skin. I guess you could put the rough side against the skin...I've never done that, but if you're a masochist...go for it.

Trust me...it's strong stuff when you get the 2 inch width and overlap it just enough to get some strength to it. I dare anyone to get out of Velcro bondage, when it's wrapped around ankles or wrists twice.

You can even Velcro your own wrists, but I wouldn't advise it, unless you have someone coming over later to help you get loose. If you're lucky, they will have their way with you, before they help you get loose.

OK, I know it's far from leather. And leather bondage restraints do have their status and all. But, Velco is the poor man's bondage tool...and his pyl ain't goona be going anywhere.

I have thought about velcro, but I just don't get into it as much. a large part of why I love my cuffs is the weight, feel, and smell of them. Looks like I'm going to have to do some research here on the products listed. Gives me an excuse to visit a few of my favorite shops

the captians wench said:

I have thought about velcro, but I just don't get into it as much. a large part of why I love my cuffs is the weight, feel, and smell of them. Looks like I'm going to have to do some research here on the products listed. Gives me an excuse to visit a few of my favorite shops

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Keep in mind, that while nylon/velcro cuffs may lack a certain style...You CAN use them in the shower... Or in conjunction with the water hose.. *grin* Depending on mood of course.. Well... That and whether the neighbors can see.

DVS said:

OK, I know it's far from leather. And leather bondage restraints do have their status and all. But, Velco is the poor man's bondage tool...and his pyl ain't goona be going anywhere.

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Duct tape is cheaper!

My roommate decided to make "green" cuffs- inner is recycled polar fleece, outter is a coordating cottom fabric. The entire thing is wrapped with a piece of webbing, with a D ring (for locking with a snap hook), and heavy duty buckle (with squeeze side release like for a backpack).

I think I paid around 50 dollars for my set on ebay. I got wrists and ankles and a really cool hogtie X that connects them all as the sub is on her belly. Women cum like crazy in that position. Resistance is futile.