mnbreastluver
Hands On Approach
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2013
- Posts
- 83,923
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We don't have fun,
She'll not have fun.
Here you go.
A small fan draws air in by the head to cool the motor. Normally this is a good design, but someone forgot the air needs somewhere to go--there is no exit vent. This is probably why they slapped the 25 minute time constraint on its use.
The circuit is a pretty simple design, but they really cut corners with the motor. Sure it's big and powerful enough, but it's a cheap brushed DC motor instead of a quality AC induction motor. Since it's a DC motor, it uses a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the AC to choppy DC. The low speed is created by inserting another diode in series, effectively cutting the power in half. It's a common design.
I included a schematic as well.
priceless!!!We don't have fun,
She'll not have fun.
That is hilarious!
priceless!!!
Priceless!!!
priceless!!!
Nevermind... it finally opened, but I could really use a spring size/guage.
In general, the rule for oil vs. grease is to use oil on parts which have constant contact like bearings, and grease on parts with intermittent contact, like gear teeth, or the spring drive.
Well, I replaced all the diodes. I removed the old ones, and made sure the motor was still good. I soldered the new ones in place, and tested it out.
*BAM* The diodes exploded, tripping the breaker once again.
Then I realized another stupid mistake: the diodes were only rated to 20 volts. I replaced the diodes yet again, this time with a beefy 600 volt 20 amp bridge rectifier. I carefully plugged it in again.
*Whhhrrrrrr* Success! I got it working just like it was originally. Of course, this isn't what I set out to do...
I added the decoupling capacitor again, this time checking the polarity several times. It still worked, and the motor was noticeably faster. Then I added a pair of filtering capacitors to reduce electromagnetic noise. The only complaint I've had with this vibrator is it causes interference with my wireless mouse.
I put it all back together, and it still works. I haven't had a chance to test it properly, but I will in the near future.
I've included a new schematic. My modifications are in violet. The filtering capacitors are connected to the metal case of the motor via a mounting screw.
With this, my 500th post, I just became a Literotica Guru. How appropriate.
Here you go.
A small fan draws air in by the head to cool the motor. Normally this is a good design, but someone forgot the air needs somewhere to go--there is no exit vent. This is probably why they slapped the 25 minute time constraint on its use.
The circuit is a pretty simple design, but they really cut corners with the motor. Sure it's big and powerful enough, but it's a cheap brushed DC motor instead of a quality AC induction motor. Since it's a DC motor, it uses a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the AC to choppy DC. The low speed is created by inserting another diode in series, effectively cutting the power in half. It's a common design.
I included a schematic as well.
Geez Just buy a New One.!
Our 12+ year old Magic Wand shorted out a few months ago. There was a tiny break in the cord where it went into the unit (unnoticeable until we looked), and it even burned a hole in the carpet when it shorted. I ordered a new one from Vibratex (via Walmart.com) immediately. My Original Hitachi Magic Wand was also made and marketed by Vibratex, so that isn't a new thing at all. They just changed the motor and removed the "Hitachi" name for the new model, but everything else appears to be the same.I love seeing old post like this come back to life.
So just so every one knows, the original Magic Wand has not been made for some time. Hitachi did not want to be associated with this great product any longer. YOU CANNOT BUY the good one (new) anymore. A company purchased the rights to it and have re-branded it "Magic Wand Original" with no mention of Hitachi. It is way less powerful than the true original. There are also a few knock-offs that are even cheaper and of course less powerful than the that one.
We have owned one for many years now but I had do dissect it to figure out why it got noisy one day, very noisy. I had it torn down to the bare bones and I can tell you it is made very well. The electric motor is in the handle and the head has the offset weight on roller bearings. The knock offs have the motor and weights in the head only. There really is no need for such a large handle with those but they just need to copy the look, of course. Never let moisture get into the bottom of the head as this will penetrate deep into the head where the bearings are and make them rust. This is where ours was till I replaced the bearing and cleaned and lubbed. She is in heaven again.
The OP had great suggestions on what lube and which lube to use on which parts, so go back to the first post and read (in case the internet brought you to this page first). Everything is repairable and replaceable in the "toy". I'm even thinking about putting a Tim the Tool-man Taylor touch on this one day. Arh-arh arh. Hopefully those that have had failures with your "original" wands will have someone handy to get them fixed. Yes it's hard to believe that a current company cannot fabricate one as good or better, since there's still quite a buzz happening with these. BuzzBuzz just becuzz cuzz but we just keep them going till something better cums along.